note to self


french vogue, cobrasnake

I am a perennial writer-on-hand-er. It's not that I don't have a diary - I do... multiple. It's just that if something is super pressing, super important, super super, it's not enough to have it on paper. I need it on flesh, too. It's something about having it present, omnipresent - i'm always looking at it - that makes me actually do it. At school I was famous for having a hand constantly covered in scribble: 'Do English', 'Call Jo', 'JFK Research'. So much so, that at the end of year 12 I had to stop writing on my hand because the ink was sinking into my skin so much and leaving permanent marks. To this day, the vein on my left hand is slightly darker than the vein on my right. It hasn't stopped me from writing on my hand, but it has stopped me from doing it in so much volume.

Although I imagine Alexa's list are somewhat more exciting than mine (can you imagine it? 'Call Karl', 'Do Coachella Set', 'Buy Chanel Bag', 'Sienna I/V Research') it is somewhat comforting to think that even the best of us need a little reminding to get off their arse sometimes... 

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come fly away

terry's diary

 The other day I had a dream about a shearling jacket so big you could wrap yourself up in it and fall asleep, dreaming big, happy dreams of airplanes and fluffy white marshmallow clouds. I'm pretty sure that jacket was Chloe Sevigny's Acne Aviator. I'm a huge fan of shearling, and this jacket is incredible. It's got a huge, fuzzy collar, just like the one in my dream, that you could nuzzle your cheek on - an aviator jacket just like the real ones pilots wear. So maybe I'm not as cool as chloe - I couldn't rock simultaneous trends of clogs, denim cut offs, ankle socks and shearling - but I would wear it in a similar way. Note how Chloe is rocking her jacket as a cape in picture two? That is my favourite way to wear jackets. 

Great minds think alike, so they say.

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the junction



When I talk of Alexa Chung as my "style icon" what I really mean is she is an "icon" full stop. I don't necessarily covet her style per se - the person whose style i most covet would be Yasmin Sewell or Taylor Tomasi, I feel like even though I love Alexa's writing, her presenting, her way with clothes, her humour, her style isn't necessarily me. It was always funny for my friends who used to marvel at the fact I could be so slavishly adoring someone who wore mini skirts and itsy-bitsy shorts - my greatest fear in life. So while I love her style, I used to think it wasn't for me. Until now.

This outfit, and there are others like it, but this is the one that drove it home, is where Alexa and my style meet. This is the junction. A little silk shirt, sleeves rolled up and tied at the waist? A pair of black pants that come in at the ankles? Some sensible but not boring mary jane flats in an antique gold? The only thing I would wear instead of that leopard mulberry alexa is my (faux) ps1, but since the shape and general demeanor of the two bags are almost interchangeable, I don't think this is a huge issue. I have worn this outfit. A lot. I love this outfit. A lot. It is a simple, unfussy outfit that makes everything easy - moving, dancing, talking, eating. No wonder Alexa wore it to this Mulberry party in Singapore where she was DJing. Can you imagine how much fun you would have, unencumbered by a sequined bolero or be-ribboned chemise while you were "spinning decks"? It's a minimal look, but it's still got those hints of personality touches.

I'm headed out to brunch with a great friend of mine that I never see anymore for a morning of chowing down on scrambled eggs, little danishes and some glorious chai teas.  I might just wear it now!

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i carried a watermelon

There are few simple pleasures in life. One of them is dark chocolate. The second is using a new pen and lecture pad for the first time. And the third is Dirty Dancing. That movie just gets better and better with age, even more naff (if at all possible) but also even more enjoyable. Even more cringe-worthy, but also even more tear-inducing. I defy anyone to be moved by the final scene of that film, that moment where Baby laughs at Johnny sidling up to her... that's the laugh of someone deeply in love. It doesn't matter that it's Patrick Swayze (but boy, does he look good), it doesn't matter that his hair is as high as a kite, it doesn't matter that her name is 'Baby'. It's wonderful and touching and real. Yes, I am still talking about dirty dancing here. It was on late night tv tonight and I watched it whilst trying to do my civil war readings. Needless to say I read about half a page before throwing it down and settling in with tea and ecoliers. 


Something I was struck with watching it this time was how American Apparel it all was. I was reminded of a post Stevie did ages ago about dirty dancing, and how it made her want to go to American Apparel. Well, it may be about a year later, but i get it now!  Swishy dance skirts like the floor length maxi's they have in store now. Denim cut offs and washed out saturated leotards. Checked skirts and tight white chinos. 60s, but informed by the 80s. It's that exact kind of preppy dance-slut that AA loves. (I guess they don't call it dirty dancing for nothing, har har har). Now, I'm not one of those by any stretch of the imagination, but the whole thing has got me thinking. Who wouldn't want to be Baby having a summer fling? 

all images from american apparel

My mum said to me while we were watching - "but this is so unrealistic. Where will it go? how could it possibly turn into anything? it's just a summer romance". I guess the answer to that is, it doesn't matter, really, does it? It happened, that's enough.

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swap till you drop

the clothing exchange

I've always had a bit of a desire to go to a swap meet. You bring a bag of your own clothes, loved but no longer needed, and leave with armfuls of new things to fill the lost void - all whilst having a bit of a laugh and natter with friends. I sort of was involved with one a little while ago, but it was more - "hey hannah, come try on this dress I don't want anymore and there'll be oreos" and I bought some skirts that I no longer needed. BOOM. Swap Meet.

The Clothing Exchange have gone one better. They've been organising swap meets for years, and on September 10 will run "Swap Your Frock" in the lead up to the spring racing season so we can all get ready for the races in style. The concept is simple: bring the party frocks, millinery and accesories you want to swap, get "buttons" in return and then use them to "buy" goods from around the location. You can basically "buy" as much as you bring. It's free to attend and, once inside, everything else is free too, provided that you bring enough goodies to swap. And, of course, it's all ecologically sound. Those clothes that would otherwise languish in the back of your wardrobe could be picked up, loved and adored, by a new person. This is clearly a win-win situation for all! If it sounds like your kind of thing head to the BMW edge, Federation Square on Friday September 10th at 6:30PM. You can register at the Clothing Exchange and find out more details online.

Sadly I won't be able to attend, as it's in Melbourne. But if any of you are around, it sounds like the most fun thing. Swap big for me!

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paddington alive


Right now we are in the throes of Paddington Alive a week-long event that is part of Rosemount Sydney Fashion Festival that basically celebrates the wonderful suburb I call home. I can't really explain why I love paddington so much. I've lived here all my life, in the same pokey old house, and there really is no place like it in Sydney. It is part residential, part community, party restaurants, part shops, part night life. There is something for everyone. It really is the coolest place in Australia, no question. It is filled with beautiful old terraces and the glamour of Victorian Sydney but you can also find pockets of modernity, shops that sell Balmain, and delis that stock exotic french cheeses like St.Augur. It's cosmopolitan, a real world-suburb, that can remarkably have the trashiness of late-night haunts as well as the most primary schools concentrated in one suburb in the entire of the state. It's family, but it's also fun.

This year the Paddington Alive event has many guises. You can drop into the "In Converation" series tonight with designers like Leona Edminston and Mrs Press to discuss fashion, frocks and all things fabulous. You can see photo exhibtions at the ACP. You can be part of a huge street-style experiment. But the best thing about Paddington Alive is the William St gala. On Saturday the little shopping strip, famed for its mix of international edit (the Corner Shop, Poepke and Belinda) and home-grown magic (Colette Dinnigan, Ginger and Smart, Lucette). It is one of the most exclusive shopping strips in Sydney and right on my door step, and I love it. This year turns the street into a Fashion Laneway, blocked off at both ends and filled with street performers, DJs and food stalls, this mecca of Paddington style becomes a place that you can explore and experience. Each store is taking part - ride a bike to Pelle and say "I love to recycle my style" and you will be treated to something special!, there will be a Rittenhouse installation at chic boutique Poepke, a "spring carnival" at style junky where special sale offers and spring designs will be on offer to get ready for the new season. Even the houses will be taking part with images on each terrace celebrating "style icons". The paddington Inn, the pub that corners William St and the main st Oxford St, will be playing live music all day long with chic cocktails and pizza for those who have shopped too hard.


My favourite of the whole event, though, is at the Corner Shop. It is one of my favourite stores, stocking hip labels like Isabel Marant etoile, Josh Goot and Therese Rawsthorne. This year they are celebrating the launch of their blog during the Laneway Festival with a Flower market. That's right, fresh flowers throughout the store. It is a wonderful idea, and I can already imagine beautiful daisies, peonies, roses, sunflowers and sweetpeas sitting in big metal buckets around the pavement and throughout their paint-splattered floor boards. So chic, so fun. 


That's paddington for you! Hope to see you there!

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an ode to film

dev hynes' flickr


You know what I love about this? No, no, it's not Alexa. Now that's a surprise, isn't it? What I love is the way that the film looks. In bright daylight (and even in the dead of night), it saturates everything in a washed out, camel-coloured hue that is old-worldy and sligtly historical. It doesn't help that the little shearling jackets and trench coats make it all look so 70s. A time when life was bright, when knowledge was knowledge, and when the best things in life were mucking around with friends, sapphire blue pools and driving down an open road. I find that even though with film the photos can be slightly murkier than digital they are, in many ways, much sharper. There is a sharpness to the emotion, a sharpness to the understanding, a sharpness to the feeling. Is there anything quite like sitting on your bed, working your way through a roll of photos, the ghost of a smile crossing your face as you remember that photo, why you took it, what it entailed? There is a surprise in film that comes from the gulf of experience that happens between taking the photo and developing it. I, even now, have about 10 rolls of film sitting on my desk waiting to be developed. 

The time is now!

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american beauty



Despite all my initial reservations I'm actually obsessed with my american civil war history course. I've been drinking vitamin water, watching SVU and reading F. Scott Fitzgerald. I'm reading up on American fashion history for my big historiography essay. My thoughts are instantly going to my american friends like abby. I've been remembering my american flag dress. I've kind of, shamefully, been wanting to find another one. I've been wearing more denim. 

This is the American dream!

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ready for the close up

jak and jil - various my favourite things including maya villiger, christine centenera, stevie dance, tara vasev, francesco comminelli.



There is much talk about regarding where street style is headed. It was a veritable explosion into the fashion stratosphere - a sartorial paradigm shift - that moved the focus away from the magazines, or at least away from the pages of the magazines, and onto the streets. Trends were forged on the pavements of Milan, the corner of Spring and Broadway, the end of Brick Lane. The power over the control over what people wore fell squarely into the hands of the street style photographers (notably here, not the people themselves, because, just like that seminal logic riddle, if a fashionista walks through new york but the sart doesn't take a picture of her, does anyone care?) and not the magazine editors. Style stars were made - Kate Lanphear, Taylor Tomasi, Giovanna Battaglia, Anna Dello Russo - who all owe their incredible popularity to the photos lensed of them by Garance Dore, Scott Schuman, Tommy Ton, Hanneli Mustaparta and Maya Villiger. Books were made, exhibitions curated, articles written, first class flights around the world to various fashion weeks produced, tee shirts commemorated, collaborations announced. And now, on the brink of the Spring/Summer 2011 shows, we reflect.

Where is street style headed? Here is my theory. Street style is going to pull back, and then zoom in. Tommy Ton has it right, in fact, Tommy Ton had it right all along. Focus on the details, because they are what make an outfit. The single polka-dot print in a wardrobe of chambray. The contrast between tan demeulemeester and tan limbs. The supple grain to an alexander wang donna hobo. the spectrum of denim. A line of heels, each more extragagant than the next. A box of watches where they writhe around looking incredibly like snakes (for some reason, that's what I thought about). This is where the beauty in fashion comes through. In fashion the big picture is all about the little things, funnily enough. The best part of Vogue US? It's not the editorials, often stale and stiff, but the Vogue Edit section at the back where Meredith Melling Burke brings her classic Americana touch to bringing together items under $250 to themes - Christmas Gifts, Wedding ideas, summer necessities, even Blogger must-haves in the March issue. The best part of street-style for me isn't the whole of an outfit because I've always been interested in the close ups. I want to see the shoes, the jacket, the jewellery, the sunglasses - and even further, the watch, the tattoo, the nail polish, the lipstick. Because - this is the thing, really - for me looking at street-style isn't about slavishly copying an entire look. You have the magazines for that, and besides, it's not very original. Looking at street-style is a process of inspiration. What inspires you about the image, whether it be shoes or a silk shirt, and then building upon that yourself. 

With a good detail shot you can guess the rest of the outfit yourself. You can see an image of, oh, say, vintage american tee shirts, and then add yourself a pair of battered Levis 501s, a scryscraper pair of statement heels, a big, brash piece of jewellery and tousled hair. Details are the building blocks of an outfit. Break that down - tee shirt, jeans, shoes, necklace, hair. Or even further - the slogan on a tee shirt, the rip in a jean, the buckle on a shoe, the clasp on a necklace, the part of a hair style - and you have yourself a set of photos that is at once both incredibly revealing and yet tantalisingly out of reach. Who is to say you couldn't split those pictures up into 5 different sets and they wouldn't make sense? Separately, they're just pictures, they're just clothes. But together they make an outfit. But, just like pieces of a puzzle, you don't need to see them all together to know that they could work together. Detail shots like these ones work in a way very similar to how you dress yourself. You take the various "pieces" of your wardrobe and you put them together to make an "outfit". The puzzle of getting dressed. Easier for some than it is for others. But still the same for all. 

It is this that streetstyle is tapping into. Maybe we don't all work for magazines, maybe we don't all have the body of a teenage supermodel, maybe we don't all have the bank account of an actress. But we do all get dressed. Fashion, in more ways than one, is life. Everyday we get dressed, and everyday billions of people around do the same thing. Why we choose certain things and get dressed in a certain way is partly personality, partly imagination, partly inspiration, partly culture. The new street-style, heralded by Tommy Ton, but you can see it seeping into garance and others, understands this perfectly. The new street-style wants to let us into other people's wardrobes - albeit other fabulous people's wardrobes like christine centenera - so we can see how and, here's the most important bit, why they dress themselves in a particular way. And that is where street-style is headed. It is moving away from merely showing us what happens, in other words, what people are wearing, to showing us why people wear what they do.  And that really is far more interesting.


This is my 600th post. Who would have though Capture the Castle would have gone this far - certainly not me. Here's to all of you who come here, look, think and most of all - read. That's what I set this blog up for initially, so I could write and write and get it all out. Well, I certainly have. I'm ready for my close up.

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all you need

stella mccartney


According to Stella McCartney - and who doesn't listen to her judgement these days - all you need in life are these three things. A slouchy, baggy cardigan in a shade of oatmeal. A grey coat cut as sharp as a tack with inverted collar and bracelet length sleeves. A tangerine dress with a trailing hem and a one-shouldered neck line. Here you have it - the current fashion mood distilled in three simple, beautiful images. Camel, Grey, Tangerine. Cardigan. Coat. Dress. Hair pulled back, nails scrubbed bare, piercing gaze. The contrast between clean clothes and the humour of the cartoon logo. And, let us pause. What is going on in the background? Why does Natalia have two shadows? I guess if we all looked like her perhaps we could be so deceptively thought-provoking. You've got the cardigan for the dressed down days, the just-pulled-this-on-out-of-bed-days, the coat for the serious business of life, the dress for the fun of the after-party. Actually - perhaps we ought to re-order that. Coat for the daytime, dress for the night-time, cardigan for the after-the-night time. 

Like I said. All you need.

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la vie en rose

vogue paris september 2010

I have a bit of a thing for roses. Unsurprising, really.

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the gemini effect

style.com

Not all minimalism is born equal. Some collections are more equal than others. The pin-sharp lines of Jil Sander. The way Phoebe Philo reinvented the way we looked at beige with Celine. And this - Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen's sophomore presentation for their 3 year old label The Row. It's minimalism, but not as you know it. This isn't the grown-up, working-gal kind you see on the runways of Calvin Klein and MaxMara (soon to be on every fashion editor next month at the shows). This is 90s minimalism with just a hint of grunge, as seen on those too young to wear it the first time round. Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen are barely into their 24th year and were far too busy with 'So Little Time' and making GREAT tween-tastic movies like 'Winning London' to have been part of the 90s minimalism that captured the hearts of a generation, fuelled in part by Heroin Chic and the Seattle grunge of Nirvana et al. Perhaps that's why the way the Olsens do 90s minimalism is just a little bit chic-er than the way it actually was. The Olsens switch out the doc martens for penny loafers (and not the kind Alexa Chung would wear, but the kind of your grandfather would wear) and the ripped tights are eschewed for bare legs and bravery. The collars are buttoned up to the neck and the sweaters are just a little nipped in at the waist, a little bit more sexy, the pants are just that little bit baggier, as if you found them in a charity shop and bought them anyway, even though they were a bit too big. All without a hint of tartan in sight.

What makes this minimalism - although the Olsen don't like the word minimalism, so lets call it elegant anonymity or some other vogue-esque phrase that doesn't really mean anything at all - different from other types of minimalism? First, let's discuss the slouch. These are clothes that the cool kids wear whilst they sip bourbon and apple juice in dive bars. Slouch is not something you would associate Phoebe Philo or Francisco Costa with because slouch is not something that a 30 something woman needs or wants. But it is something that the teens and 20 year olds want. Witness the pockets - pockets on long-line tunics, pockets on asymmetrical tweed skirts, pockets on dress jackets and suits. Witness the collars that button all the way up to the neck like your favourite acne shirt. Witness those cosy knits that you can simultaneously dress down and up in. Witness the way those calf-grazing skirts are just as cool - if not more - than the very few minis that the Olsens showed. What does all this mean? it means that the lines are long and lean, but not dull and boring. These are lines that skim over the body and allow for movement, these skirts flick out, those sleeves roll out and one imagines you could run a marathon in those baggy pants. As you can see - there is slouch. And it's bloody good slouch, too. 

tfs and olsen gallery online - how great is her kelly bag!

What else is different? Well, the second thing to notice is how clean it is. There really are no bells and whistles - not even with the hair and make up. The lengths of the model's hair is blunt, baby, blunt. It's almost scrubbed clean. Fresh. New. It's definitely not something we've seen in fashion for a little while. No sequins? No legs-a-go-go? No shoulder-pagodas? If none of this, then what is going on? Without the theatrics its just clothes, but they're not ordinary clothes. These are clothes that speak for themselves. They speak for working women like Ashley Olsen who runs her own fashion label, they speak for Lauren Hutton, they speak for Carey Mulligan, they speak for me, in the future the Olsen twins want them to speak for everyone from Michelle Obama to Chloe Sevigny. Women from all walks of life, as the cliche goes. The third thing to recognise is that colour palette. You have lots of black, white and grey. So far, so minimal. But it is where the colour spectrum brightens that these two diverge. You'll find no camel, toffee, taupe or beige in the Olsens' collection. It is blue that they are most concerned with. An almost denim-like blue in its rich intensity. In their spring/summer collection it was found in a matte belted python dress. Resort sees a suit in a rich blue tweed, perfect for garden parties. Just a hint of a drop crotch, so Taylor Tomasi will be happy. The pre-requisite for minimalism is a shot of colour, be it Philo's bright tangerine quirk, itself lifted from Raf Simon's at Jil Sander, or a little bit of canary yellow at Marc Jacobs. Fourth, it all looks so perfect with Ashley's Kelly Bag and tousled hair - slightly Carolyn Bessette Kennedy, with a touch more attitude. And Fifth... well, I just love those long skirts.

Since late 2008 (and trust me, you I know, I trawled through pages of the Olsen gallery online to get pictures for this collage) Ashley Olsen has been dressing in a way that has users on tfs yelling 'boring', 'soccer mom' and 'aging'. All they can do now is eat their words. Because, as you can see, Ashley Olsen has been so far ahead of the fashion curve she was off the chart. For almost a year now her style has been written off as 'over'. The days of the Olsen twins supreme reign over fashion with their balenciaga cities, their denim cut offs and their turbans were over. Not so, not so at all. Those kick flared corduroys pants, those baggy pyjama slacks, those knee length grandpa jumpers, those calf-length skirts, those boxy dress jackets and loafers are coming to a store near you. The Olsen twins are back. In fact, they never even left.

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sugar and spice

love magazine


One fashion "rule" I always, always stick to is never stick to fashion "rules". You know the ones. "Blue and Green should never be seen". "never wear navy and black together". "don't wear white shoes at night". "don't wear white shoes at all". "No diamonds until after you're forty". "Don't have short hair until you're 30". Blah, blah, blah. It's much more fun to make up your own rules, I think. Although there is something to be said for the "sugar and spice" rule. That's the one that's all about balance. If you're going to go all girly and frou frou make sure you have some killer lingerie underneath. If you're going to wear biker chic leather you better have your hair and nails done too. You can wear whatever you want really - big, brash necklaces, thigh high boots, lace collars - but there has to be balance. Style yin and yang. Take Alexa here, stunning in a cheeky little checked mini. It's a girly print kept just this side of saccharine with the kind of side split that would make your grandma blush. A little bit of nice and a lot more naughty. Just like Christopher Kane's absolutely wonderful Spring/Summer 10 collection, all gingham, lace, beading, tulle and splits right up the dart-line of Lara Stone's toned and terrific legs. Sugar and spice, naughty and nice. I suppose that's a fashion rule I can stick to.


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truth

childhood flames


Fashion should always make you do this. the minute it doesn't, is the minute you have to put down that vogue and have a large, stiff gin and tonic. don't take it too seriously. It's just clothes, after all.

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and then there was light

fashionising

Okay. So i know I learnt everything I know about modelling from Next Top Model (Smize, ladies, SMIZE goddamit), and I know I am biased towards the girl, but there is a reason why Kate Moss is the best model working today. And this is it. In every. single. shot. she is on, toes curled, lips pouting, back arched, fingers flexed. Her muscles aren't tense, she isn't cramped up, she is loose, languid and cat-like - which is just the brief for a bardot-esque swimwear shot for Vogue Paris' June July Issue (and cover) shot by Mario Sorrenti and oozing sex appeal from every (completely minimised) pore. There are some who say she's too old for modelling, that she's had her time in the sun. that her moment has passed.

Her moment hasn't passed. This is Kate Moss' world. We're just living in it.

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