the pendulum


It is said that in fashion for every step in one direction two steps in the other is taken. Remember, way back when there was a move to kitten heels? You don't remember? It was only 6 months ago now. There was a big push for kitten heels - marc jacobs, prada, manolo, marni - and yet this season we are back up on those skyscrapers. Why is that? Fashion writers will intone with great knowledge that it is because of the yin and yang nature of fashion. We are leopards that need to change our spots etc etc etc. I kind of got sick of reading various incarnations of that sentiment in the march magazines. In Elle UK it was all about the "reaction" to minimalism - articles on maximalism, orientalism, chinoiserie. But I think if anything is clear minimal dressing is not only hear to stay, but has been proved to be more than just a fleeting trend, but a quiet movement bubbling under the surface for almost a decade. The magazines for the past couple of month have shot article after article in my face about "reactions", "changes", "movements" and "contrasts" - pieces about gypsy dressing, boho styling and 70s glamour. They are trends, sure, and it is the magazine's job to report trends. That's not the problem. It's this culture of 6 month cycles, this need to change. These trends are not presented as what is new and interesting in fashion, but rather what is new and imperative. The way of writing gives the reader no choice. Invest in this trend or risk being left behind. 

Which is why the small bag 'trend' - and I use that word loathingly - is interesting. A movement for a little while now, the small bag trend was championed by, among others, Phoebe Philo at Celine, but has found its incarnations at Marc Jacobs, YSL, Dolce and Gabbana and even the queen of big bags herself, Chloe. Small bags were a manifestation of all that minimalism was about - classic design, sleek realisation of purpose and ultimately, brevity. Gone were sore shoulders, back injuries and dangerous bags. Instead, teeny tiny purses that required tight editing to only the absolutely necessary things, be it lipstick or lighters, wallets or watches. All manner of clutches, pochettes and grip bags were to be found tucked under the elbows of editors at fashion week, a whole host of long chain handle evening bags or small frame shoulder bags swinging from blissfully relaxed shoulders. And then next season designers went a step further - mini versions of the house staples, from the Celine luggage tote to the Chloe across the body marcie. These were small bags modelled off - and identical to - their bigger older sisters. Not only did they fulfill a minimalist brief, they were so damn cute. 

So what does all this mean? That next season there will be a swing back from small bags? Well the sartorial soothsayers have been predicting something of that ilk for the past couple of seasons and are still waiting for its eventuality. I think the fact of the matter is small bags are here to stay. Big bags - think Olsen twin huge, stuffed full of, well, stuff and joined by a jumbo coffee cup - seem so dated in comparison to a tiny, chic accessory. They speak of a time when there was excess and mindless extravagance in fashion when now there are these things tempered by reality. These bags may not be "real" in that they are easy - it takes a real force of mind to restrict the contents of your purse to a few key items. But if nothing else they're not going anywhere. People like them. And last I checked, that was a better indication of "trends" than any magazine page.

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