the sartorialist, of course. who else?
Clearly I'm having a bit of a thing with menswear at the moment. Not just wearing it, but also taking inspiration from it. It started after a girl at work handed the Esquire guide to style to me for perusal and I was struck. Nothing like this really exists for women - not if you think about it. This guide is a no-nonsense exploration of all the quintessential things for men. How to tie a tie, exploring different suits and fabrics (when is seersucker right? what should you wear to black tie themed events?) exposing the meanings of different handkerchief folds... It's fabulous. Women don't get such a serious how-to, not when it comes to fashion. We have to deal with jokey guides that thrust endless amounts of LBDs onto us. I would much prefer a style guide that explores shirt lengths, rolled sleeves or no, different jean cuts, how to wear shoes in, how to tie a scarf, how to pack a bag etc etc. Wouldn't that be something?
So it started there. Then lin posted this quote from Josh Charles - my teenage crush circa Dead Poets society and, later, S.W.A.T (don't judge) - where he talked about feeling comfortable in clothes as the ultimate. Are we the same person? Then Mr Porter kept thrusting beautiful editorials with attractive men into my inbox, and I was struck by how amazing - and yet how simple - they all looked in chinos, sweaters and desert boots. Their Journal tab is incredible, and, need I say, begs the question why Net a Porter doesn't do something just like it. I know they have the magazine, but it's not as good as the Mr Porter journal, with its different themed features. "The Classic", where favourites like the Cable Knit sweater or the Burberry Trench Coat are explored throughout history, or my favourite, "The Knack", where all those tricky things about, well, being a man, are broken down. How to be a good dinner guest? Consider it done. These are life skills, and I'm not going to apologise for swotting up on those articles with reckless abandon. The NAP mag is great, but it's got nothing on the Mr Porter journal.
So what is it, exactly, about menswear that is so inspiring? It must be, because there are women like Elle UK's Donna Wallace who dress completely head to ankle (not shoes, though) in items from the boys department. For me personally it's been about quality. I think, like Christina Brinkley pointed out, menswear is often about the highest quality materials, the best fit and the most comfort. Womenswear often sells poor quality things that don't fit well for exorbitant prices. Comfort is often the lowest on a long list of priorities. Also, menswear is about creating a point of interest in small details. Details such as the sliver of ankle between a too-cuffed pair of jeans and the top of a pair of boots. A tiny bit of grey marle tee shirt hanging out over a belt. Simple colour combinations in interesting textures. Excellent, excellent layering. Sometimes I think womenswear focusses on the big reveal when actually the tiny, almost insignificant touches are the most magical. Long time readers of this blog will know I feel strongly about that. It is truly a skill, but it's one that stylish men have in spades. Who else could make an outfit with a single square of fabric, folded neatly and tucked into a pocket?
Menswear has given us countless wardrobe innovations. Shirts. Slacks. Hats. Suits. Sportswear. Brogues. Parkas. Vests. It's hard to contemplate the modern woman's wardrobe without it - mine included. But something I'm going to be doing more of is dissecting the menswear looks on the Sartorialist, rather than merely paying attention to the attractive of the men featured (woops, my bad). Likewise to Mr Porter. There's something very inspirational, yet under the radar that's going on at both of these sites. I'm still not quire sure what it is. I don't think I'm going to start shopping only in the menswear departments (unless it means only shopping at acne for the rest of my life, because the acne mens department is better than the womens hands down any day). But little things like showing a sliver of shirt underneath a cardigan, or cuffing my pants too high? They just might be my point of difference.
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