Wandering in Wan Chai

 all photos by me, one: the view up St. Francis Street, two: a laneway off Ship Street, three: development on Ship Street

Wan Chai is my hood, and I mean that in the oldest of old school ways. My grandparents have always lived in Wan Chai, first on a street so overflowing with shoe-box sized shops peddling wedding stationery and celebratory chopsticks it was nick-named Honeymoon Alley, and now on a bustling main road near the MTR station. I’m comforted by its familiar winding laneways and gargantuan buildings, the same restaurants we’ve had yum cha at for years, decades, the same places my family and I return to over and over again whenever we are there. This time I visited by myself and it was a whole new experience wandering Wan Chai on my own, searching out good coffee and shops. My discovery? Wan Chai is up and coming! Who would have known! Up a steep hill (reminiscent of Soho’s inclined walkways and with that same best-kept-secret feel) was a little enclave of cafes, wine bars, organic food purveyors and a host of trendy boutiques as well as one quite spectacular French deli and patisserie. I spent most of my time exploring there and getting to know these mostly new fixtures in the neighbourhood I know and love so well. So here is my itinerary for a Wan Chai day!

Breakfast at Classified, Mozzarella and Wine Bar – 31 Wing Fung Street

Coffee in a bowl and a good granola are some of life’s great, great luxuries. After having drunk what can only be described as hot water and foam for a few mornings at various coffee chains that will not be named it was so lovely to sit in this tiny, tiny little shop front with a steaming bowl of milky coffee and read the paper. This is one of their smaller outfits with just two communal tables, but it’s nice to sit elbow to elbow with strangers and share a few words or two. My granola was shredded, which I’ve never tried before, dotted here and there with dried apricot ands and sultanas and dusted with elderflower honey. To finish, a generous helping of apples. Just lovely!

Window shopping at

45R – 7 Star Street

A cult Japanese denim and basics label that only uses organic cotton in their products, this shop was very cute and filled with the kind of oversized sweaters and checquered smocks that Sofia Coppola would love. I loved how they displayed their product, hanging up on hooks throughout the shop like someone’s intimate wardrobe, and the shop girl sitting at a sewing machine working on alterations behind the counter.

Cocktail – 33 St. Francis Street

Cocktail stocks trendy designer labels like Sonia Rykiel and Forte Forte as well as Australian brand Something Else by Natalie Wood. Bright and punchy, the layout of the store was almost like a cool bar. I loved their catalogue, designed like a tabloid magazine, which featured look book and editorial shots as well as short articles. Such a fantastic idea for a store!

You can always count on Hong Kong having beautiful fresh flowers everywhere, but especially during Chinese New Year!

Monocle – 1 St. Francis Yard

I mostly got excited about this one for all of my guy friends who religiously pick up Monocle on the way to uni and sit at Taste Baguette looking all superior in their horned-rim glasses and briefcases, but this store was actually very cool. You could purchase back issues of Monocle as well as limited editions, monocle carry cases (!!!! Yes these exist!!!), travel accessories and a small men’s accessories edit. The store front was tiny with shelves sitting along the wall and items resting on the 5 or so steps up to the main bank of the building, which actually houses the Monocle Hong Kong offices. If you’re lucky you can get a sticky-beak at journalists conducting interviews on the leather couches just behind the curtain!

Kapok – 5 St. Francis Yard

I found my perfect hat at this store, a Steven Alan fedora at 40% off in delicious olive green and caramel felt, but they only had size small and it wouldn’t fit on my big head. Very, very sad. Kapok is a cute boutique with shoes on one side, one rack of clothes on the other and a few leather accessories in the middle. Their style is that very Alexa Chung indie/nerdy-cool, with Breton tops from Paris mingling with Steven Alan shirts and desert boots.

Russell Street – 6 St. Francis Yard

I stumbled into this shop on the first day they were open after Chinese New Year, which was lucky because it was probably one of the most interesting stores in the area. It’s tiny, like all Hong Kong boutiques, with just one rack that extends to the back of the long store. Their philosophy is up and coming British and American designers, and I was excited to see labels like Eudon Choi, Vena Cava and Velvet. They had some beautiful cashmere sweaters on sale for a steal, and the lovely sales assistants explained the history of the store to me as well as picking out some things that they thought I would like. One of the sales assistants, Amus, was one half of Hong Kong fashion and jewellery label Anyway, and she modeled one of her cute leather rings for me. She told me that you can purchase kits to make the rings yourself, and check out their blog here. I really loved this store, even though it wasn’t my style. It was such a breath of fresh air and filled with people who were devoted to fashion.

W.D.S.G Art and Craft Department - 9 St. Francis Street

This shop was a true gem, the kind of thing you really do stumble upon in back streets and forgotten alleyways. It had only been open for one week, and yet it was filled with beautiful, classic menswear - pleat front chinos and three piece suits and desert boots - and those pyjamas that your dad used to wear with the curvy collars and the thin stripes. They also had homewares and lifestyle products as well as some amazing vintage furniture and tchotchkes. My favourite? The Soir d'Ete label which hails from Australia, simple packagin, no bells and whistles, and man, it smells good. I can't wait to come back here with my brothers and dad when we come back to Hong Kong - they would love it.

Orange, orange everywhere and not a drop to drink. Forgive this interlude but I just love Orange so much!

Stock up on supplies at Just Green – 7 St. Francis Street

 I only found this store because I happened to glance to my left and see the neon flashing sign. I’m glad I did because it was such a cute place and one of the best health/organic food stores in Hong Kong. I’ve noticed that Hong Kong has had a few of these stores catering to vegans and organic devotees pop up recently, probably because there has been a bit of a health-food revolution in Hong Kong of late. Just around the corner from here, a few metres from The Pawn (more on that later), there’s a cute Vegetarian and Vegan deli which sells fresh salads in cute brown paper boxes.

Intellectual stimulation at Agnes BLibrarie Galerie – 1/F 18 Wing Fung Street

Yes, Agnes B is a French fashion label, but this isn’t a shop, this is a Gallery. It’s opposite Classified, so after you’ve had a good walk around you can hop skip and jump back to get your fill of contemporary international artists.

Afternoon snack at Chez Patrick Deli – 3 Star Street

three: the view from below in the Chez Patrick outdoor seating area

This is a real Parisian delicatessen, with pastries (eclairs, opera cakes and mille feuilles abound) and a delicious, delectable window of imported cheese as well as freshly baked baguettes and a select blackboard of French-inspired dishes. I wouldn’t go as far as to call this stretch of Wan Chai the French quarter, but with the L’Occitane spa a casual stroll away on Star Street maybe it is.

 There is also plenty of green weaving its way through Wan Chai...

Dinner at Limehouse or Nightingale, 35 and 33 Ship Street

What do you fancy? Modern British Gastropub fare? Or classic French and Italian? You can decide on the go because these two fresh Hong Kong restaurants are actually side by side on Ship Street. Limehouse serves up traditional British favourites like battered fish and chips and bangers and mash with flair and panache while Nightingale, literally just opened, sticks to the simplicity of meat based dishes and light desserts. Both have a relaxed atmosphere and a small dining area – all the better for intimate dinners that lead to drinks somewhere else…

Cocktails at The Pawn – 60 Johnston Road

… Like the Pawn! The Pawn is probably my most favourite restaurant in Hong Kong. I remember when it opened we were one of the first to dine there, thanks to my foodie mum who sniffed out a new restaurant in Wan Chai that we had to visit. And, after weeks of Chinese cuisine all of us were desperate to eat things like potatoes – without the added seasoning of soy sauce. We weren’t disappointed – how could we be – with what we were offered, a reasonably priced set lunch menu of cold trout salads, pork shoulders swimming in apple sauce and the lightest, fluffiest cloud of eton mess. We’ve been back countless times and had perfect meals every one – dinners, lunches, brunches, afternoon teas. But it’s also fun to head to the Pawn for drinks, mostly thanks to their inventive cocktail menu. This trip I sampled their Pawn Broker cocktail – a vodka based drink, something new for this Makers Mark and Apple Juice girl – a blend of wild raspberry liqueur and Belvedere Vodka with raspberry coulis, fresh raspberries and mint, giving a completely new spin on the shudder-inducing Vodka Raspberry order. It was so tasty it was almost enough to turn me away from whiskey for life. Almost.



And that's that! I hope this inspires some people to go to Hong Kong - seriously you won't regret it, it's such an energetic and vibrant city that is full of life. If you do, make sure you go for a little wander through Wan Chai. There'll probably be a dozen more restaurants to rest your feet in and shops for you to browse...

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