“'But I don’t want to go among mad people,' Alice remarked.
'Oh, you can’t help that,' said the Cat. 'We’re all mad here. I’m mad. You’re mad.'
'How do you know I’m mad?' said Alice.
'You must be,” said the Cat. 'or you wouldn’t have come here.'”
Lewis Carroll, Alice in Wonderland
Just as Tim Walker's photographs always look like a fairytale, and Terry Richardson's like some kind of sick (but oh so sexy) porn film, and Ellen von Unworth's a lesbian homage... Annie Leibowitz's photographs always look calm.
Perhaps calm is not quite the right word, but there is a certain stillness to her photographs that is incredible, and intriguing. I think it can really be observed in this Vogue US shoot, now notorious and much loved by all, the Natalia Vodianova Alice in Wonderland themed shoot from December 2003.
[foto_decadent]
Do you see what i mean? Ah, sometimes it's hard to express exactly what you can see. But even in that first picture, where natalia is falling down the 'rabbit hole' you get that feeling of stillness. Nothing is moving. Leibowitz has this ability to really capture a moment like no other photographer that i have ever seen. Sometimes with photographers you get a real sense of movement, i mean, you can see that in the tim walker photo of the 'oompa loompa' and jamie bell jumping in vogue uk dec 08. It's the kind of stillness that the vogue us caro trentini jumping in a studio photos have. And i'm not quite sure whether i like it or not. On the one hand it is very clear. Sharp, even. But then again, sometimes i like my photographs to be more, well, alive.
Regardless, however, this shoot is just lovely to look at. in some pictures natalia vodianova has a really annoying and confusing expression on her face, kind of like a sulk, especially in the one with donatella versace. But if you can get past that, there are the clothes. And believe me, it's worth it! Leibowitz's stillness of style is particularly illuminating in regards to the clothes. How many times have you gazed at an image, peering at the outfit, straining your eyes to see every detail. Leibowitz captures every tier, every frill, every flounce, every stitch in such fascinating clearness that one must wonder whether or not she is a clothing enthusiast herself. These kind of shots are perfect for vogue. Whose audience is, ultimately, interested in the clothes. You average Vogue US reader may not know natalia v, nor posen, victor and rolf, galliano, theyskesns (!), they may not even have read alice in wonderland... but beautifully crafted and amazingly creative clothes are something that everyone can understand and appreciate.
How beautiful, and fashion forward, is the Victor & Rolf ribbon dress with the exaggerated shoulders? Very margiela. How classic Karl is the pale blue dress with bow and thigh high boots? The Christian Lacroix dress is such a perfect example of his flair and drama in clothes. And Galliano as the Queen of Hearts? The only time i've seen better casting was in Lord of the Rings.
You've probably read this far, especially you Brigadeiro, and are now thinking... but she hasn't even mentioned Oliver Theyskens!? He was in this shoot!? Looking FABULOUS, totally do-able (even if he is gay, i will turn a blind eye to anyone who says he is), and created the most beautiful dress of the whole thing! And Natalia had those squinty eyes that tyra calls 'fierce'. She looks good! Why hasn't she mentioned that picture yet?
The Oliver Theyskens picture is my favourite of the whole shoot, and not just because he's in it, although that does contribute a little. Rather i think that it is the one image that really excites me. None of the other images captivated me as wholly as this one. Perhaps because it was in black and white, visually arresting among so much un-saturated colour, and Leibowitz does like her colour. And there is just something about a black and white picture... i've blogged about it before, there's just something so beautiful in the simplicity of black and white. No colour to distract you. Just the subject. And what beautiful subjects they are!
All this ranting should not take away from the fact that i do like this shoot. How could i not? Alice in Wonderland is, after all, one of my most favourite books of all time. If the shoot had been at least half decent i would love it. And this is more than half decent. This would, probably, be one of my favourite shoots of all time had it been shot by anyone else. But there's just that incredible lack of motion that makes me feel very odd about this. I know they're photographs, but you want to feel the image, the passion behind it, the beauty and artistry of the clothes. I just don't feel it with this particular shoot.
Even hundred thousand dollar chanel couture can't make me. And that's saying something.
Curiouser and curiouser indeed.
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