It's not easy being the first show off the block at Paris Fashion Week. You have to show, uneasy in the knowledge that after you comes some of fashion's biggest, most coveted, most important shows. Chanel. Dior. Yves Saint Laurent. Stella McCartney. Celine. Dries Van Noten, however, always likes to stay ahead of the fashion pack. Whether it's the way he quietly promoted ikat and ethnic patterned design for a good 7 years before it caught on in the wider fashion mindset, or perhaps his loose, languid and drapey sillhouette that is having a moment right now, or even his use of colour, pattern, embellishment and shape that defies the imagination and inspires all. He prefers to leave everyone in his wake, rather than quiver in fear. Dries Van Noten is a worthy show to start paris Fashion Week. If you remember last season his show was enough to bring me out in raptures. Pragmatic, yes, but still covetable and oh so fabulous. It was all practicality, efficient elegance, to use the new york times' turn. It wasn't stuffy, it was just clean and simple. The look of the season - the long, fishtailed evening gown with cropped sweatshirt - came from that show. The second look of the season - the full, ballooning skit with matching blazer, lady-like luxe with a modern twist - also came from that show. The accessories shape of the season - doctor bag, tucked under the crooked of an elbow - came from that show. The colour of the season - camel with a dash of khaki and navy blue (together but not mixed, natch) - came from that show. The pattern of that season - leopard print - came from that show. Need I go on?
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Dries has built on last season's wonderful realism to create a spring summer vision that is totally gorgeous. It is a breath of fresh air, a waft of easy luxury and simple clothes that are completely delightful. It may not have quite the punch of last season, but i think it has something more simple and comfortable. Everything seems geared for summer picnics and balmy gossamer spring evenings when you're eating things like beef carpaccio and drinking wine by the carafe. The master of layering showed looks that were easily achieved by throwing on such wardrobe staples as the blue jean, the peri-winkle blue shirt, and the white shirt dress. For evening the idea was simple - just nick something out of the boyfriend and/or dad's wardrobe. Dinner jackets swung, oversized, against sequined tops and tailored white shirts. There were a couple of glamorous frock coats that had more in common with Erdem than they did with Balmain, elegant and beautiful, a real museum piece. A lot of sheer, and the camel of winter is toned down into a more-ish buttery lemon yellow. In keeping with the major trend of the season there was a lot of white, a classic summer colour, and yet at the same time, ridiculously difficult to keep clean. But I imagine that being a Dries Van Noten girl would also come with a town car and a chauffeur, so things like public transport wouldn't even cross her mind.
What's to like? If you're sick of unattainable fashion and ready for some clothes you can actually wear, then Dries delivers. It's not for everyone, but then, I endeavour to suggest that perhaps 80s trashtacular, 70s glamour and 60s bombshells aren't for everyone either. That's the beauty of fashion, you can find a look that you love and cultivate it, and it's all for you. Whether you're a parisienne urban warrior like Emmanuelle Alt, a quirky accessories master like Taylor Tomasi, or the fashion is art kind of woman like Daphne Guinness, there is something in fashion for everyone.
And for me, well, I'm choosing Dries.
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