mach 2

collage: made by me from images from the gentlewoman website

photos: la mignonette  including that wondeful shot of Anastasia Barbieri that has become quite possibly one of my most favourite photos of all time, no joke!!

The second issue of the gentlewoman is just as wonderful as the first. Opening with a series of question and answers with various creatives types including Ashley Olsen and Film Producer Rain Li, and then progressing through the thick, blissful pages with such features as "Apple" - a celebration of that glorious fruit - winter editorials that focus on fighting the chil, "Navy" which features outfits comprised one hundred percent of navy clothes, the scintillating boot polish editorial that had more than a whiff of repressed sexuality, a fantastic interview with photographer Inez Van Lamsweerde which included some never before published portraits by Helmut Newton, a very cute back-of-book collage of "handiwork" past-times, where a hand model with beautiful hands knitted, carved, hand-dressed salad and chopped whilst the women of the issue talked about their favourite handiwork past-times.... That's quite enough to be going on with, right? 

The best thing about The Gentlewoman is that it celebrates creativity in all its form. Whether that be actresses, designers, photographers, writers, or the head of a curry-making corporation. The articles are fresh and surprising - and although riddles with spelling mistakes and typography errors that irk - remind me of the kind of unbridled enthusiasm for life that i-D used to have in the good old days. I particularly enjoyed Marion Hume's wonderful article about Television News Anchors and the do's and don'ts of TV fashion. It was intelligent, humorous and ultimately gripping. My favourite editorial was the zoomed in "winter", where Parisian fashion types like Anastasia Barbieri wrapped up against the chill and enjoyed a sneaky cigarette or cup of coffee. "While most Europeans hibernate in the winter months", the opening lines read, "The Parisians elegantly embrace the seasonal chill. They'll be cruising the boulevards instead, or sitting out on terraces and sipping hot drinks, wrapped in the cosiest of knitwear." Definitely a true statement, and I can't wait to have another Parisian winter, enjoying that crisp winter chill on my cheeks.

Essentially the Gentlewoman is a creative magazine. Where else would you find editorials where the clothes are folded up, oragami style, to form pyramids of grey? Or an entire 8 page editorial on apples, from pink lady to granny smith? Or a wonderfully cheeky article about comedienne Julia Davis, complete with a collage of her wackiest characters? I do love glamour in a magazine, but sometimes glamour can become staid. After only two issues it is hard to tell exactly what will happen to The Gentlewoman's refreshingly, well, fresh tone. But right now, it's exactly what I need.

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sprung

 

I can't remember the source of this - i think stevie dance's blog at RUSSH.

 Spring has most definitely sprung - and about time too. You know it's getting hot when even I decide to dispense with the overcoats and throw on a pair of slashed boyfriend jeans and a white tee shirt. You know it's spring when even I urge a trip to the beach and iced mojitos - stat - instead of takeaway indian and rugged up movie nights. All I can think about is eating mangoes, good, dark chocolate ice cream and crisp fennel and calamari salads. I don't want to go to uni, I don't want to write my take home exams and final papers, and I certainly don't want to go to work. That's spring for you - you think you don't care, you think it's your least favourite season, but when it comes around you just can't get it out of your head.

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the quiet

 Stevie Dance and Maya Villiger at the RUSSH blog

It's hard to find peace and tranquility during fashion month. The stress of working to hourly deadlines, the forgetting to tweet, take the lens cap off, jot down important notes, record interviews, remember tickets, wear the right shoes, brush your hair, have your press pass.. The whole thing is a bloody nightmare. And imagine having to do it four times over, not just in New York, but after a gruelling trans-atlantic flight in economy (or sardine class, as my mum likes to call it) again in London, then in Milan, and then Paris. You'd need a holiday - a long one - plus a massage, and a really big meal (because trust me, there's barely time to drink let alone eat during fashion week) and a sleep that lasts for fourteen hours. The stress is enormous. If the whole thing wasn't so bloody fabulous it would be impossible to bear. 

That's why it is so exciting to see pictures like these. Taken by Stevie Dance and Maya Villiger for the RUSSH blogs, these photos capture something of the quiet, still moments amongst all the stress. Blinding lights, cups of coffee, gap-toothed models in all their innocent beauty. You can see the beauty in upturned collars, in teased hair, in searching for your seat, in pots of empty make up - the mundane, trivial, not important things - but the things that puncture the frenetic, frazzled mess that is fashion month and make you think, ah! it's all worth it, somehow. That amongst all that energy and buzz and tantrums and excitement there is the possibility to capture a moment so tranquil it seems like it has come from meditation not behind the scenes of a runway show. Even more than style.com's clinical runway shots or the formulaic street style, these are my favourite fashion month images.

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good things

Vogue US November 2010

On his blog the Sartorialist posed this question - Minimalism: is it sometimes not enough of a good thing? On the contrary, I like to think minimalism is just enough of a good thing. Just as how Coco Chanel told us to take one thing off before you leave the house for risk of over-decorating, so too does minimalism remind us that there can be too much of a good thing. The attitude is to calm down, not work up. The idea is that the best things in life are those that come totally naturally to you - whether that ivory suits or paisley jumpsuits. And the fact of the matter is that that which comes naturally to you is often that which you instinctively never overload on. I could never, ever eat too much fromage d'affinois or too many macarons.

Minimalism is just like that: among other things, knowing exactly when to stop.

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apartamento

Freunde von Freunden

The Secret History by Donna Tartt is one of my favourite books. Ever. I remember reading it, enthralled, in about 2 days straight the first time. Now I savour it, going over my favourite bits in my mind (like the "death is the mother of beauty" speech in Richard's first greek class). One of my favourite, most loved descriptive moments - and there are many, many - is when Tartt develops the character of Camilla, through Richard's adoring eyes. Richard muses that even though Camilla is the only girl in a boys club she never loss any of her softness, though you hardly notice that it is there. Richard describes this moment when Camilla, escaping from the rest of them, hides away in the cellar to read, her fur coat "thrown over her knees" as she reclines in a forgotten sleigh. I can't quite explain why I love this idea so much. I guess it's that hope that even if you are constantly surrounded by guys, like me and my brothers, your femininity is tempered but not lost.

I was struck by this idea when browsing through this wonderful website Freunde Von Freunden today. Much like The Selby the site aims to capture creatives and layabouts in their natural environments, beaten floorboards, polished glass surfaces and modern art and all. But the difference here is that beautiful natural light, seeping into every photo and emanating this joyful exuberance. It is hard to believe these apartments are in Berlin, all that light and it seems like some fantasy land where the sky is always blue and the windows are always flung open to the summer air. None of the apartments have very much furniture in them, which probably helps the whole air of chic-ness about them. But even more than that, especially in the apartments belonging to girls, there is this feeling of soft, quiet femininity. Along with scratchy armchairs and anonymous tables there are bunches of fresh flowers, gilded mirrors, paintings of cherry blossoms and the colour pink. None of the furniture is very girly per se - there's no duchesse satin or chintz coverings - but there is still that subtle, irrepressible sense that a woman lives in this flat. Just like how you can wear all the androgynous shirts and tailored pants you want but the way the pants curve over hips and the shirts nip in at the waist is something you'll never lose, there is a sense of the female touch throughout. I like how de-cluttered these spaces are, how easy it would be to live in them, how all it takes for peace and harmony are french doors, cocktails, laden tables and sweetpeas.

I'm thinking of changing my room completely - getting rid of almost every piece of furniture, taking down the magazine cut outs, cleaning out my wardrobe, de-cluttering my life. The more I think about it, the more it seems a mammoth, mammoth task, but then the more I see pictures like this, the more I feel terribly claustrophobic in my room. Change is afoot.

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jump on it

the sart, garance dore, street fsn, team peter stigter

The problem with living in Australia is that you are always out of wack. Inevitably you end up wanting things out of season - an Isabel Marant coat in the heat of spring, a pair of sun-kissed espadrilles while you're buckling down for winter - and it is confusing, to say the least. Which is why I find myself, on a hotter than hot sydney saturday, yearning after things like cable-knit fisherman sweaters. After this fashion month it seems like every good editor has one tucked away in their closet to pair with things like pleat-front pants, circle skirts and sequined dresses. Where's mine? I want one! I want one even though it's about 30 degrees today and the scratchy one I pilfered from my dad's closet smells a little of moth balls and I won't be able to find one in any chain store, and the ones from Vinnies will have a cat pattern on the front and I won't get to wear it until next year (at least, and even then it never really gets quite cold enough)...

I want one! With their thick knit and their wide collars and their loose slouch these jumpers are the perfect things to while away hours on the couch in, or to dress down your best tailoring, or to scrunch up the sleeves of when you're out at a concert. Maybe, maybe, in summer, you could even wear it with a slashed pair of jeans, a pair of strappy sandals, and your hair in a messy up do. You could definitely wear that in summer right? I need to justify this purchase. That would totally work for summer.

Well, a girl can dream.

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current mood

The Sartorialist

Scrolling through the Sartorialist's archives today in search of a specific photo I stumbled upon this gem, something I missed in the hassle of fashion month. He had subtitled it something along the lines of "in my opinion: fashion's current mood". I can't help but smile. Recently all elements of this picture have been appealing to me. I recently made my first leopard print purchase since a poorly-conceived leopard print tights era circa 04 - a pair of chic ballet flats that are a pain to break in, but I know will work perfectly with a pair of tapered pants and a simple tee. I'm feeling red for accessories at the moment, and despite the fact I am a long skirt fan, the heat of Sydney's weather recently has made me yearn to slip into something short (shocking, i know!). A flash of leg, a pop of red, the obligatory leopard print, a comfy sweater, and a celine shopping bag big enough for me to climb into. If this is fashion's current mood then consider me so stricken!

And that celine shopping bag - well, need I say more?

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2 minutes

The cobra snake

I'm a big fan of entertaining. I love having people round to my squashed little house and sharing food, laughter, stories, drink... It's fun to cook something all day and then watch it be devoured - morsel by delicious morsel - by some of your closest friends. But I'm also a bit enchanted by this idea too. Invite your mates around, sit them around a big, hodge-podge table, russle up some salads, bread rolls a couple of dips, and then the piece de resistance - instant noodles, hot and steaming from a polysterene cup. I'm not going to lie, I do cringe a little at the sheer hipster-ness of it all (where else but the cobra snake would you see such a dinner party?) but there is a part of me that kind of wants to do it. After years of catering for my friends with elaborate things like eton mess and chargrilled eggplant and haloumi salad maybe it's time to take it back to simpler times and just give them all 2 minute noodles. 

Anyone up for a dinner party?

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hey friend!

Source: Maya Villiger/Turned Out wearing BRVTVS portia bracelet

Remember those days when you used to sit around on porches and make friendship bracelets? You used to get those precious, jewel-like threads, tape them down onto some hard surface, and weave and tuck and generally make a mess of the whole thing until a fully woven strip of fabric would emerge, triumphant, and you would hand it over to your "best friend" with such vehement pride? I used to get friendship bracelet-making kits for my birthday every year, and I used to weave (or really, plait, because I was hopeless at all the elaborate designs made) my little heart out. Those were simpler days, right? 

Caroline Ventura makes the kind of friendship bracelets that my 9 year old self would have turned her nose up at (too fussy, too gold), but my 19 year old self is obsessing over. Her label BRVTVS has a whole Roman theme going on - get it? Brutus? The master of betrayal now promoting friendship? Anyone else think that's really funny? Just me? okay, moving on - that comes through not just in the name for her dainty, delicate little necklaces and jewellery (think Calpurnia bracelets and Pompey necklaces) but also in the style. Caroline makes pieces that are so delicate and intricate. Her pieces are all so simple, but striking in the way that good jewellery is.You are stunned not by flashy jewels or settings, but rather the quality of metals, that rosy-sheen of the gold, the way that a bracelet can swoop around the classic curve of the wrist. There are no bells and whistles, just easy chains with a small pendant or a tiny bead. But imagine that, resting lightly on a freckled arm or poking out from a comfy sweatshirt? Can't you see those gold chains stacked up or by themselves, just draping along the lines of an Acne silk shirt in pistachio green? This kind of jewellery is the kind that restores my faith in an industry saturated with fake metal, resins and alloys. Caroline uses only 14k gold and - in her reincarnation of the friendship bracelet, hand dyed silk - that results in jewellery that practically sings with natural beauty. I guess I'm the girl who always preferred rough cut quartz and freshwater pearls. 

I always warm quickly to designers who say that the reason they started the line was to fill a void that they identified as lacking. Isabel Marant with her need for simple, easy-going Paris chic, Phoebe Philo and her desire for a working woman's minimalist armour, and now Caroline Ventura, who says she designs jewellery she wants to wear. Her, and every other girl, including myself. She said that perhaps history might have been different if Caesar had given Brutus a friendship bracelet. I used to think that nothing is ever that simple, but after seeing these bracelets, I might have to change my mind.

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black and white and red all over

tommy ton for style.com & caroline's mode

The best thing about a restrained, neutral colour palette for your clothes is that your accessories really pop. The masters of minimalism are well aware of this - why else do you see neon bright bags at Celine or striking shoes at Stella? Everyone knows that if you are wearing black and white - or grey, or brown, or beige - you can go crazy in the accessories department without it being extravagant. That's why the must have accessories for this season are things like tiny little clutch bags in eye-popping colours, bold, in your face cuffs that demand respect and attention, shoes that announce your presence merely by the sound they make across a parquet floor. The thing about accessories, and I'm not just saying because I happen to work with them, is that they are statements above and beyond an outfit. I may not be a bag girl, or a shoes girl, but I am an accesories girl. The whole package of accessories - shoes, bag, belt, gloves, scarf, hat, jewellery - is like a mini outfit in and of itself. It has the same dynamics as picking out separates or matching dress to jacket, there are the same relationships, the same interactions. But better, because these things lift your clothes from merely being what you are wearing, to being what you are living. 

What does a red bag say about you? On a chain hanging off your shoulder it says that you have a fire inside you ("you know they have a cream for that", as Carrie would say). It's about glamour and intensity and passion and excitement. So you can be wearing, oh, say, a white button down a simple a-line skirt but lose none of your extravagance when you wear a red bag. Or, it could be a simple zip clutch bag, so strikingly similar to a pencil case (remember these?). Because then it's all about the utility, the ease of use, the simple, simple shape, the fact that it looks like a pencil case.. But that red makes it all different. Red is one of those polarising colours that you either love or hate. No-one is ambivalent about red. Red is the colour of love - and hate. Red is the colour of glamour and excitement but also melancholy (the mean reds) and death. Such a colour, so invigorated as it is by history and culture and society can hardly fail to move someone. 

Which is why, if you're planning on buying into this new minimalism that's going around, you should invest in some red accessories. Because, if nothing else, when your Calvin-Klein-esque sheath fails to excite your next date, your red as sin bag might do all the work for you.

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high society

Vogue US November 2010

Anne Hathaway (et al) shot by Mario Testino

In fashion circles there seems to be a bit of a vogue (har har, pun intended i guess) towards reading certain magazines. Edgier fashion tastes tend towards the edgier magazines - the "hip" ones. Unfortunately for me I am neither hip nor edgy, and so I have to settle with plain old Vogue. Why do I love Vogue so much when even I can see that it is falling behind in the stakes of fashion, style and accessibility? Partially it has something to do with the fact that Vogue was the first magazine I bought. It was my entree into the high society of fashion. I couldn't quite believe all that glamour, that glitz. It seemed a world away from the petty high school quibbles and the cheap, mass-produced chain store trash that I was putting on my back. I still remember that feeling of complete... excitement. I'd never been more excited in my life. With every page that I turned there was more loveliness, more frou, more glamour, more beauty. Every word was dripping with that special Vogue brand of exaggeration, elitism and a little dash of humour. I remember being quite, quite charmed by this image of Lily Cole in a Christian Lacroix meringue puff of a wedding dress. I remember thinking.. This is fashion. This is so exciting, it looked like something out of a fairytale. 

I can't help but love Vogue, because that's how it all started for me. Yes, it may be a terribly cliche entry into the world of fashion, it may be quite silly and frivolous to get your entry via haute couture and lucinda chambers but I did, and I can't help the fact that even today when I see a shot from Daria's infamous gypsy boho shoot in Vogue UK my heart sings. I can't help but get giddy at the sight of couture and still find some measure of comfort in the old guard of Vogue movers and shakers - Plum Sykes, Bay and Daisy Garnett, Kate Phelan, Lucinda Chambers, Kate Betts and Sarah Mower - whose words and pictures line my walls and are the most resounding images of my fashion education. And when I read a Vogue now there are some magical moments - sometimes - when I get that giddy feeling all over again. It happens when Vogue surrenders to the stereotype and entertains some unabashed, glorious glamour. Vogue UK excels in its December issues, universally resplendent with silver foil lettering and editorials that usually have diamonds as big as the ritz, huge circle skirts, cherry red lips, limbs like pannacotta. Vogue US, despite its ridiculous high society pretensions and inches - no, yards - of pandering to socialites' egos, does glamour better than any other publication. Just be tucking one under my arm I feel like Grace Kelly or Aerin Lauder. So I don't mind picking up the international vogues every month (at exorbitant, exorbitant prices) because they make me happy. Sure, they're not really cutting edge. 

But my god, they're beautiful.

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shelves

As I go about thinking about re-organising my room there is one problem that springs to mind. It's not the size of my room - at about 2.5 square metres in total it is a little cosy - because size is just a state of mind. After perusing endless studio apartment inspiration websites I kind of like a small space for the innovation in space it can bring. And space isn't so bad when you don't have a lot of stuff - after years of living with clutter springing from every surface I think I might be ready to get rid of some (read: most) of it. The problem is what to do with my magazines. I have about 500 at least, all of which I want to keep. My mum can't understand why I would possibly want to keep magazines I've already read, and I guess it is a little hard to understand. Every now and then I get my old copies of magazines out to re-read, or I'll hear about a great article from an old Vogue that maybe back when I was 15 or so I didn't get, so I'll find it, and read it properly. That's why I need them. They're like books - you can always go back to them and find out more things. 

Right now I keep my magazines on an IKEA bookshelf that keeps collapsing under their weight. Too heavy. Too many. And they spill out from the bookshelf onto the floor, onto my desk, in my wardrobe. They are just taking over my room. But I can't get rid of them, I'll get rid of anything but my magazines though. I'm even thinking of finding some kind of shelf (maybe an industrial strength one??) to go along the back wall of my room where my bed currently is for my magazines. Almost like a feature wall, but full of Natalia Vodianova, Kate Moss and Gemma Ward. But I can't think of anything that will fit in the (tiny, tiny) space, and I haven't had much luck with shelves so far anyway what with all the collapsing and the falling apart.

Or maybe something like this:

Anyone got ideas about how to store magazines?

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the lips have it

both pictures into the gloss

In make up, as in fashion (as in life, no doubt), there are only two options this season. With either your long dresses or your tiny tiny minis, with either your lace up wedge boots or your classic ballet flats, with either your shearling aviator jacket or your camel coat - there are two choices for your lips. One of them is tried and tested and oh so true: the classic, infallible red lipstick. Rich, sultry and the best friend of first dates the world over, the red lipstick is a staple of every woman's beauty bag. With just a lick you can go from bored to bombshell. It can be cool (think, phillip lim shorty shorts and an acne silk shirt) or collected (louis vuitton circle skirt and classy kitten heels). It can be summer (denim cut offs and a mille-feuille thin tee shirt) or winter (tweedy coat, chunky scarf and big boots).

But after years of the red lip are we ready for something else? The other option is something I am much more interested in. The new nude lip. In keeping with the natural look - tousled hair and glowing, but unadorned skin - the new colour for lips isn't really a colour at all. Maryna Linchuk in the photo above is wearing NARS Pure Matte lipstick in Tashkent, a colour that practically makes the lip disappear against the skin. I once tried this look with concealer on my lip - it looked fab but tasted horrible. NARS is a much better bet, methinks. It is so matte it's ridiculous (a touch of cream might be nice), but the effect is something fantastic. It's quite possibly the coolest thing I've done in make up since the winged cat eye-liner, this matte, beige, super super natural lip is just so damn hip. Paired with a clean face and a really smoky eye it will make a huge impact for evening, and with a tee shirt and a long skirt for day. Easy. Simple. And oh so chic. 

The choice is yours.

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burning up

A friend of mine laughed at me for buying a scented candle the other day from bloodorange. She said you'll never use it - why buy candles when people give them to you all the time? It's true. It's like candles are the go-to gift if you don't know quite what to give, and I do get a lot of candles. I must be hard to buy for (although I don't think I am, a box of macarons from baroque will set me up quite, quite quite nicely thank you very much). But I bought this candle because it was lovely, and it smelt like spices and figs and just a hint of cheroot-y tobacco. It's A.P.C's Bougie N.3 Toumbac, and it is quite simply divine. 

And, take that dear friend, I'm burning it right now. 

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french wardrobe

A couple of weeks ago I was sent a beautiful little package from an online store called Button n Thread Boutique. Inside was a gorgeous little breton top in black and white from their summer collection. Button n Thread is a great Australian online store that basically tries to bring beautiful, simple clothes for incredibly low prices. Each piece is lovingly wrapped up in tissue paper and sent out within 24 hours if the order is from Australia. They also ship internationally! Nothing mass produced is stocked, it's all about quirky, unique and ultimately affordable pieces for the modern gal. I love it when online stores try to achieve similar things to a boutique. Button n thread really creates an experience of shopping through its online layout, it's products and its customer service. Just like a real store!

The top is such a lovely cut and so soft, I couldn't help but pair it with what is sure to be my winter staple - it's definitely too hot for coats now. The top reminded me of Audrey Hepburn in Funny Face, hanging out with beatniks and poets, so hence a bit of a Paris inspired outfit. Tapered black pants, my new Isabel Marant jacket (that I love love love, can't get enough of, would sleep in if I could, and wish it wasn't summer so I could wear it all the time), chanel ballet flats and my maniamania cuff - just for something a little extra to add some spice to the whole thing. You can't be chic all the time!

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it's not what you think

Behold. This is a leather bag. Not a paper bag - although that crumpled creme brulee leather sure pulls the wool over the eye, doesn't it? - but a leather bag. It is the Proenza Schouler boys classic witty take on accessories. For their first line they didn't want to make an it bag - lo and behold: the PS1 is born. Now they want to make an unfussy shopping tote so they base it on a paper bag. There are so many things that are right about this: that classic proenza double strap running along the mid-thirds of the bag. The slouchy, who-gives-a-damn shape. That loved, lived in kind of feel. And let's not forget the humour of the whole thing. You're going to need it because at upwards of $615US (although, we are dollar for dollar right now, so i guess it's the time to buy), you better hope this bag is funny. At $615 it better sing and dance too. 

I wouldn't put it past those proenza boys.

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