Karl Lagerfeld at the helm of Chanel is a genius, a word thrown about too often nowadays, but when describing the Kaiser it is quite true. Chanel is the only HC house that makes a profit off the haute couture, the other houses lost money, but see HC as a large marketing push, inviting the wealthy to spend more money and the not so wealthy to indulge in perfume, lipstick or evne a pair of shoes, so for a mere slice of the cost of HC they, too, can feel like they are part of this fantasy fashion world.
I'm planning on doing a series of Haute Couture blogs to highlight my favourite shows over the years, and what better way to start with the master and the most beautiful. Chanel Spring 2006 Haute Couture was absolutely, undeniably, incredibly, amazingly breathtaking. well made, historic, lovely pieces were sent out one after the other with not a shocker in sight. Daphne Guinness sat front row nodding her head the whole time and noting down which ones she would like to add to her considerable collection, a documentary was being filmed about 'the secret world of haute couture' (kinmoth, 2007) and Karl was in his element. Namely, lace, tweed, tulle, beading and feathers. Lots and lots of feathers.
But whilst it was very Karl and you could see his stamp on everything it was also very Chanel. A lot of designers nowadays at the big houses forget that whilst they have to forge their own design aesthetic and identity they also have to stay true to the core of their houses. Alber Elbaz forgot that at YSL but look at him now, reaping the rewards of transforming Lanvin whilst also doing his own thing. Karl manages to be both Fendi Karl and Chanel Karl (as well as Karl Karl), and he never over extends himself. Every piece in the collection was Chanel Karl to a tee. Beautiful crafstmanship and innovative but classic design. Wearable, if couture could be called that.
Did it make me want to buy every piece? It made me wish i had the disposable income of a small african nation. The collection was like a goblet of ice cream with chocolate sauce on top, deliciously sweet and innocent but tempered by the sticky, dense and thick realisation of worldliness and sexuality. I loved it. My favourite couture collection of all time, and one that i would gladly own every single piece of (and wear every day) if body size and money allowed it.
And he showed almost the whole collection in flats. Now that is class.
My favourite piece in the entire collection. It took over 150 hours to make the skirt alone, with 25 people applying the feathers. Simply stunning.
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