New York Fashion Week was first, and Spring Summer has revealed that it is going to be sheer beauty. (get that pun? sheer, because there was lots of sheer on the runway??? ah you know what i mean). There were beautiful sheer layers at Ohne Titel, Rachel Roy, Erin Fetherston and Willow. I love this trend because sheer upon sheer is just beautiful, it creates an almost confusing textural effect, because the sheer distorts each layer of fabric underneath it in a most lovely way.
Also hipster trend fashion is hitting back, big time. Alexander Wang and Vena Cava showcased two very different types of this style; one very alice dellal the other more alexa chung, but the point is that clearly the youth culture is infiltrating onto the runway with a vengeance. Alexander Wang is an amazing new talent, i can't believe that this is only his 4th season (discounting resort). His show for Spring/Summer 2009 was very athletic, but without being pretentiously so, and without harking back to olivia newton john in her lets get physical days. There was colour, especially in the form of a beautiful hot pink blazer worn by indian model (star on the rise) lakshmi, and there were bizarre studded swimming caps that really worked in an odd way. vena Cava did their Grandma/romance mixed with punky elements really well. There was great colour, lovely mustard yellows and bottle greens, and i really like their design aesthetic. It was clean, no fuss and cleverly put together.
Of course the big guns did not disappoint. Marc Jacobs delivered a visually arresting and interesting show, his models were polished and cool, his clothes crazy, clever but wearable. MBMJ was of course a hit with florals and stripes in youthful cuts. His clothes are always a success no matter what they look like because they can always be paired with something that will tone down their oddness or increase their audacity, whatever the predicament. His resort collection was for me a hundred times better. I loved the YSL influences, the heart and star appliques and the kimono style wrap dresses. It was all volume, but cleanly so. I loved it, and this collection was a little too busy for me, although that might have been the point, when following up such a pared down resort collection. I loved on style.com that they called it Mary Poppins goes to DUbai. There were certainly lots of crazy/silly hats, flouncy skirts and carpet material. But hey, i kind of like that, i do like the grandma aesthetic. That'll do Marc Jacobs, That'll do.
god the models were FIERCE at Zac Posen. i saw shots of girl of the moment Abbey Lee Kershaw and i gasped out loud, she looked like she had just bathed in the blood of virgins before firing some rounds, eating a whole chicken and piercing her nose. Whilst doing cocaine. The clothes were, i suppose, to go with this image. There were biker jackets and suede minis and lots of leopard print as well as crazy lines (plastic on the back? wait, what?). Is Z-money trying to make a new statement about his aesthetic? Previously it was all ladylike tailoring, clean, sharp, lets-put-12-darts-into-this-skirt-to-make-the-models-stand-straighter... Maybe he's having a mid-like crisis or something and trying to connect with lost youth. But hey, Posen puts on a show, and that's why we all love fashion, right?
Rodarte was also an interesting show to watch. Drama is what you buy Rodarte for, like Giles Deacon, Victor and Rolf, or even Christopher Kane. The netted leggings were interesting, and definitely more intriguing than the ripped sheer tights that they sent out last season. I loved some of the grecian-style dresses, the pale palette and the sheer, all of which is going to be big in Summer, as it always is. But there were some crazy pieces too, like the knits that had leather and chains melded into them, or the statement dresses with wild patterns, slashed out sides, fur/feathered skirts and PVC bandeaus. Great for editorial, but if someone wore that in real life they would be crucified by the press/blogging community. Crucified. Still, props to Rodarte for pushing fashion boundaries, but i'd like to know what their yearly profits are, all the same.
One of my favourite shows was the Philip Lim 3.1. It was really interesting to watch, Lim didn't go all out with his Spanish caravan references like some designers have done in the past (mcqueen, we're all looking at you) but instead chose patterns, motifs and embellishments to pair with clean separates. It was a strong statement about his design aesthetic and a clear recognition of his best skill which is luxurious separate pieces enhanced by kooky and odd embellishments and accessories.
I was disappointed by Derek Lam, who i love, but whose show was boring. Separately the pieces, i'm sure, were lovely, but together there was a dull palette and yawn-worthy styling. DKNY was also very sleep-inducing. The clashing prints couldn't even keep me awake. And proenza schouler!! Why? What happened to the magic of your fall showing with beautiful sumptuous jewel tones and luxurious silks? what happened???? The funnest show by far was Anna Sui, however, where all the models were laughing. Agyness Deyn managed to keep a straight face the whole catwalk until she stopped to pose where she broke out in her huge, cute smile. God she's everywhere, and she's a real fame-whore, but the girl is very cute, i'll give here that.
And that's that. A wonderful week filled with excitement as my favourite australian models Alice B, Myf, Abbey Lee, Sky Stracke booked all the big shows and hundreds others, walking with poise and pose, even when they fell (poor Abbey!!). I also loved seeing some of my favourites, Lily Donaldson rocking some great eye make up at Zac Posen and Cat McNeil's telltale tattoo on show at DVF.
London Calling!
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