The thing about Ilincic, and don't get me wrong, i love her and some of the dresses this season were lovely, is that she has no finesse. She's trying to be this great avant-garde dress-maker, whose creations will float from the bodies of hip young things like Nat Portman or Thandie Newton, but the problem for her is that her finishing really leaves a lot to be desired. The feathers on one bodice looked as if they had been glued on, and there was no darting on some of the satin dresses, which meant they stretched over the body and horribly showed up the model's flaws, and if models have flaws then i can't really hold much hope for the rest of the population.
No finesse means that the nice dresses that had potential to be beautiful pieces never really became anything other than nice. And the fact that the whole collection was shown in a big warehouse-y open space meant that every mistake of Ilincic's was abundantly clear and her lack of couture expertise was made very obvious. Usually Ilincic chooses much more close and intimate destinations for her shows which i suppose might have shown them in a more delicate light, and perhaps garnered her more praise. But the white expanse of the loft/warehouse was unforgiving, as have been some reviews.
The vision was all there, and it was a beautiful vision. All softened palette combined with odd materials such as PVC and chiffon/tulle. There was some promise shown in some of the dresses, such as a blue satin kimono-style overdress that slipped off the shoulder to reveal a salmon pink slip with PVC straps underneath. But then came some of the oddities, like a PVC dress with flowers on the hem, or a jumpsuit..... i can never forgive jumpsuits, they are not flattering on anyone.
This is the dress i was talking about, huge flowers on the hem balanced out by huge sleeves, which made the bodice of the dress stretch out and looky there, someone's stomach is showing. No-one wants that. Not even models!
The problem with these two dresses is that they didn't really fit into the collection, there were others like them, so it was more like 2 collections in one, a dark vision as seen here with the plum satin and black tulle, and then a paler vision as seen below with all the pastels.
look at the feathers!!! glued on or what!!
This dress was weird. I didn't like the whole thing in PVC with the flowers looking as if they had actually just been thrown onto the dress and then hot glue-gunned down.
My favourite dress of the whole collection. Showed some promise for Ilincic although the finishing was poor the idea was great. I loved the Satin bodice with flower strap, belted into a full skirted PVC/tulle wonder and then down into satin again. Very nice.
This was just... I'm sorry, i have nothing to say. The picture says more than i ever could.
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Roksanda Ilincic
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