It was all very vanessa bruno, with the sleeveless tuxedo jackets and chiffon overlay, helmut newton and also some vintage inspiration, Nicoll used a blue brocade that has definitely seen its heyday in the 1940s or 50s. Together the collection was a real statement about how less really is more, that you don't have to use great swathes of tulle (although personally i do like a little frou myself) to make a bold statement. I liked that Nicoll's clothes were understated in a very classic but feminine way, i though some of the dresses, especially the ones that closed the show, oozed a very minimalistic sexuality.
Wearable, of course, the dresses could have gone straight off the runway and onto the red carpet. The separates were simple, but the finishing was exquisite. I particularly liked on silk chiffon tee shirt with a one-shouldered satin drape finished with beading at the collar and sleeves. It was marvellous to watch a young designer who has such a clear grasp on the techniques and tools of his craft as well as a collection that was so impressively controlled, restrained but still able to leave me with an impact.
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