view through stained glass windows

I think that the best collections are ones that wholly immerse you in the designer's world - his inspirations, his muses, his ideas and thoughts. Thakoon is one of the designers working today who, through a mere 15 minutes of runway presentation, can transport you into his world where the girls are luminous and the dresses even more so.

As a spring/summer collection it was perfect, the colours were bright and vibrant without being assaulting, and they sang of hot paradise ideals where the air was thick with fragrant spices. Thakoon is undoubtedly the designer with the greatest faculty over colour and pattern, and with this collection he also showed his power of restraint, some of the most beautiful pieces were not the prints, but elaborately draped and tucked dresses in suggestive nude and restrained black. There was restraing also in the individual pieces within the collection, resisting the temptation for all out glamour and the two fingered salute to the recession Thakoon mixed in his dreamy (yet still resolutely tough through clever tailoring and no-nonsense drapery) dresses with pencil thin trousers and an array of well cut basics from suit jackets to tee shirts. When mixed with the pop of his colours and patterns the effect was sublime.

When i look at this collection it is like looking at the world through stained glass windows, everyday garments like pleated trousers, simple tee-shirts and chiffon-y dresses are transformed into a smorgasbord of print and colour, like the light refracted through the coloured glass windows impacts upon the view beyond.

The collection moved seamlessly from this exploration of colour and print to the nudes and the staples, as if the viewer had retreated from his stained glass window to ponder the beauty around him in simple sandstone walls and sturdy church pews. It was the perfect marriage (har har) of divine beauty and simple luxury. And faith, in the imagination and vision of a supremely talented young designer, matched in ideas and importance today only by Christopher Kane. And i want it all!

nymag

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ps. i'm scamming the free internet at the moment - haven't yet worked out my uncle's wireless, so the posts may be thin on the ground. I hope you're all enjoying new york fashion week, especially you lucky people who happen to be there right now!

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