ah, maKANE, you've done it again

hehe, so that title was a little aussie reference, there is this frozen food brand here called Maccain, and their little taglain is (in broad aussie accent, of course) 'ah maccain, you've done it again', which i have now re-appropriated for none other than man of the hour himself - Christopher Kane. See what i did? wasn't it clever? ahhh you guys, you're the best audience, really.

There is a lot of vitriol on the internet regarding Kane's latest collection. People seem to question how it fits into the Kane aesthetic, how it flows on from his last collection, and whether it is actually any good... i'd like to weigh in, if i may (that's what this blog is for, isn't it?)

1. it's perfect for now.

Remember, Kane is always ahead of the pack. He did 80s neon revival and tight form-fitting bodycon back in 2006. He did the lace well before miuccia prada and his animal prints are sure to be fixtures on runways to come. He's not one for looking back, he's one for constantly moving forward, each collection an evolution beyond the other.

And now, as designers consider stepping back from all the black, the leather, the studs, the goth (marc jacobs said at his New York show that he was sick of seeing studded things) - even Alexander Wang has moved away from ripped grunge and into sportswear - Kane is one of the first to capture this aesthetic completely. His sexy milk maid collection, with pastel colours, gingham checks and naughty details - the dresses were shot through with cut outs or slits, revealing glimpses of the model's skin - is that so very 'now' idea of relaxed romanticism, playful exuberance and everyday implied, never declared. The hair was all messy and askew, the garments were undone (the underwear as outerwear featured heavily here) but the idea that the girls were fresh from a romp in a haystack or had been kissing a boy behind a garden shed was not so clear as it was tantalisingly hidden.

No sex please, he is british.

2. an evolution doesn't always meen a revolution

Even though gingham checks and pastels might seem light years away from Gorilla prints and circular scalloping Christopher Kane is actually a designer who builds upon his collections each season. While some designers might focus on colour or print, for Kane it is the form of the clothes, the shape, the cut, the design that he is so intent upon developing. This season he took the ideas from fall/winter, of the tight bodice pushing out into full skirted volume at the waist, and the square necklines, and he developed them even further with cut away windows, floral applique, sheer panelling and embellishment. Like i've said before, Kane is a designer's designer, he's creative, but he's also technical. The floral embellishments on the dresses were superb, and his colour matching was so perfect for spring and summer. These dresses aren't for everyone, but then, Gorilla prints, neon leopard print and swirly organza skirts aren't for everyone either, are they?

3. did you really expect it to be like christopher kane for topshop?

the man has already sent forth a collection this season, the highly anticipated, highly lauded, highly lucrative christopher kane for topshop launched last week. people seem to be astounded that those little gem cup neon dresses, studded jackets and jeans and animalistic designs and prints aren't on his spring/summer runway. I don't know why people thought he would put out a collection, a mere 4 days after topshop was launched, that was similar to it? This is the same designer who moves effortlessly from tight bodycon to flowing silk, from gorilla's open mouths to organza and pailletes. He is aware of his position within fashion - Anna Wintour and Donatella Versace sat front row at his collection, the overlord and the mentor - and it must be a huge mantle to labour under. His continuing ability to evolve and change is a sign of his strength as a designer.

This collection might be a little frou frou and sweet, but it's never sickly or saccharine thanks to Kane's dark vision for his clothes. This isn't your average milk maid, after all. She's almost the kind of willing prey for the vampires that at current haunt our every entertainment genre. She's the sofia coppola heroine, running through fields of dandelions and daffodils with messy blonde hair and a knowing smile. She's that girl everyone wants to be, who turns up to the boutique opening in a dress with a frothy tulle skirt, high neckline and slits up to her thigh. She's a milk maid with attitude, style and a wicked sense of humour.


My one complaint would be that it was a little heavy on the dresses. A few more pants, jackets, shirts and skirts would have made this collection a little more full-bodied. But who can blame him? it's his dresses that regularly sell out and feature on the starlets of the moment as they parade down red carpets and dance the night away at after parties.

And, after all, Versace was the King of the dramatic dress, wasn't he? And with Donatella styling Christopher and Tammy as holding the same relationship she had with Gianni, he might do well to evolve his dress-making technique.

style.it

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