running wild in sydney town - eat and drink




second installment of my guide to australia's showiest city:

Eat

Bills
118 Queen St, Woollahra, 359 crown st, Surry Hills, 433 Liverpool St, Darlinghurst


Bill Granger is a celebrity chef, Australia's answer to Jamie Oliver, if you will. His restaurants (the Darlinghurst one is the original and the best, but the Queen St offering is in close reach to a variety of shops and watering holes) are all communal tables and fresh ingredients - think home made pink lemonade to drink and a good strong coffee to end. They are Australian through and through. Brunch is my favoured meal here, you can feast on the ricotta hotcakes with honeycomb butter and bananas, or the absolutely scrumptious scrambled eggs with sourdough toast - these eggs are quite simple to die for. Lunch time gets more interesting, try getting a table in the Queen St branch on the weekend and you'll be sorely disappointed, and the food jazzes up - salads of semolina crusted calamari and fennel, wagyu beef burger and squid ink pasta with prawns, chili and coriander. Yum.


Mickeys
248 Oxford st, Paddington, Open Late.

I remember one balmy summer night my friend and I had gotten out of an auction at 9 pm and were ravenous. We walked down Oxford St, a shopping strip buzzing with activity in the day and crowded with bars and nightclubs when the sun sets and couldn't find anywhere to eat. 'The kitchen is closed', was the standard reply. Closed? at 9 pm? what kind of city is this? Luckily i remembered Mickeys, a hearty cafe near my house that is open late. And what a feed did we get, Mickeys is famous for its burgers, pizzas and grilled sandwiches - all served with a side of fries and various sauces. And for dessert- oh, i'll never forget all the fabulous sweet treats i've had at this place, from rocky road thickshakes to springy pavlovas. they've just had a renovation (post a building fire) and have re-opened with a bar and barista. So you can drink the night away.


Baroque Bistro
88 George St, The Rocks



This is a strictly french kind of place, a bistro that actually serves things like bouillabaise and boeuf bourgignon and has a rainbow of macaroons for dessert (every flavour from passionfruit to olive oil). When I've been there I had an actual french waiter who, in the most gorgeous little accent, told me that the maccaroons were in the flavour of 'fruit of the passion'. The place is an interesting mix of new and old - hot pink ghost chairs in a heritage building overlooking the glistening harbour. Linger over a coffee and enjoy the pastries. And the french waiters.


Sea Cow
110E Boundary St, Darlinghurst/Paddington (Paddinghurst?)

One of the best things about Sydney is seafood, and the best seafood in darlinghurst is from Sea Cow. It's fish and chips, but not as you know it - with salt and pepper squid with lime soy dipping sauce, chargrilled octopus and more fish than the sea itself. On the weekends the place gets busy so just get take away and abscond to an obliging park or by the ocean a Ruschcutters Bay. But if you can get a table, by all means, stay and linger over a glass of wine while your hearty fish and chips comes so fresh its still flipping t the table. Either way its cash only.


North Bondi Italian Food
118-120 Ramsgate Ave, North Bondi


Trying to get a sea-side table at this chic little pad and younger brother to Icebergs at the opposite end of Bondi Beach requires a measure of long bare legs, flashy handbags and arm candy in the know. But it's still fun without one, sitting in this modern dining room yet chowing down on rustic italian fare with an eye for carnivores. The steak tagliata is delicious, and relatively carb free (recommending itself to any bondi fashionistas in the hood) and washed down well with the campari cocktail. I can recommend pretty much everything on this menu, despite the fact i haven't eaten everything, simply by the fact that i've never had a bad time whilst dining here. a bit out of the way, but once you get there you never want to leave. see and be seen.

Badde Manors
37 Francis St, Glebe

This cafe is all vegetarian, all the time, but you wouldn't know it from anything, from the menu to the food, until someone tells you. So consider yourself told. I dined here 3 times without knowing, because they don't make a song and dance of anything, not the food, and not the lack of meat. You can get open sandwiches with ricotta, sundried tomatoes and alfafa sprouts. Delicious, stomach-filling salads with lashings of carrot, zucchini and rocket topped with everything from tofu to haloumi. I would recommend the chai lattes here, they are mouth-watering, and there is a selection of cakes to make your heart sing.


Sweet

Igloo Zoo
46 A Macleay St, Potts Point (Greeknowe Ave side).


Americans will understand it as the concept behind Pinkberry. But if not, let me explain: Take one flavour of frozen yoghurt - Igloo Zoo offers Pomegranate, Original and Green Tea - and toppings like toasted Sonoma Granola, blueberries, almond wafers and shaved chocolate and add a spoon. With hardly any calories at all you'd be mad not to stop here whilst walking through the area of Sydney town known as Potts Point, or to rejuvenate after you drop a hell of a lot of money at Blood Orange.


Sparkle Cupcakes
132 Foveaux St, Surry Hills


Cupcakes are having a Vogue at the moment. It seems like everone and their mother is opening up a cupcake restaurant. But sparkly cupcakery has the goods to back it up - the real deal - light, fluffy cupcakes in a whole manner of mouth-watering flavours topped with rich, reamy icing fresh from the mixing bowl. In the heart of Surry Hills and just a ston'es throw away from the site of the Surry Hills Markets (first saturday of every month) where you'll find more vintage and thrift than you can deal with as well as hand-made jewelry, stop by for a cupcake and refreshment. They even serve champagne, if you're really in the need.


Max Brenner

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Level 6, Westfield Bondi Junction, 142-146 King St Newtown, 273 George St, CBD, 437 Oxford st Paddington

Chocolate is the name of the game at the Max Brenner Cafes, almost everything in the menu is chocolate-based, and really, you don't go to Max Brenner for anything else. Chocolate soufles, chocolate Bubkas, Chocolate licks (little ceramic pots filled with sweetened melted chocolate to, well, lick), chocolate pizza... There's something for every kind and calibre of chocolate lover here. My recommendations: The chewy waffles with ice cream and fudge sauce washed down with a yellow granita: lemon and mint with crushed ice. A refreshing kick after all that dairy.


Drink

Fringe Bar
106 Oxford St, Paddington

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So hip it hurts is how I would describe this watering hole. The dining section boasts wide banquettes and low booths for sharing their trademark burgers and pizzas over a few cocktails. The lounge section has kitsch couches and framed photos lining every wall. There's even a moose head, and i'm not sure if it's a fake or a replica.. Think bijoux chandeliers and a fluro lit bar and the picture is almost complete. On Saturdays they hold a market that attracts clever jewelry-makers and up and coming designers, but its at night time the place really comes alive with thudding beats and clientele in geek glasses and tartan shirts. The music can get too loud for conversation, but you're kidding yourself if that's what you came for in the first place.


Chingalings
133 Oxford St, Darlinghurst
Thurs-Sat 6pm - 1am, Sun 5pm-10pm

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There's not alot going on at Chingalings, but that doesn't really matter if you've got a good group around you. Don't come here to drink alone. Come here with your friends to down a few, smoke a lot, and listen to bloody good music. There's no sign for entry into this pub, upstairs in an Oxford St walk up, so pay attention to the numbers on the street (or go with someone who already knows their way around) but you'll have the time of your life rubbing shoulders with sydney's hip and happening, that's for sure.


Star Bar/Pavillion
600 George St, CBD

Smack bang in the middle of the CBD, this place is nothing if not conveniently located. Oh, and cheap. Dirt cheap. The cheapest bar in town, with a happy hour that lastst until 11 pm. For that reason it attracts all (and all are accepted) and there'll be no fancy magnums of champagne here. But they do make a mean spirit mixer (vodka raspberry, anyone?). And when you're young, alcohol is alcohol. The other thing to recommend Star Bar is its music: if you ever get sick of thumping techno beats rock up to Star Bar and treat yourself to a night of shameful bubblegum pop and oldschool hip hop. Think 'Lets Get Married' and the Sugarhill Gang's 'Jump on it', always in constant rotation.


Picollo Bar
6 Roslyn St, Kings Cross

the owner vittoria bianchi at picollo bar - source

I've actually only ever had coke here, but it was because I was sick, but judging by my friend's raucous laughter they seemed to like it. This is a Kings Cross institution as much as the Coke sign or late night kebabs. What I like is the place itself, the atmosphere, the old world vibe with black and white framed pictures on the walls, a big old awning and wide front windows, the better to see out with. Just off the main strip of Kings Cross, Sydney's red light district, this place seems like it's out of a time machine.




Also:
Best Coffee - Campos Coffee, King St Newtown
Best cocktail - Wildfire, opposite the Opera House, The Rocks
Best date night place - Love Supreme, Oxford St, Paddington
Best tea and sympathy - Alimentari, William St, Paddington
Best little cafe to people watch - Jackie's 1c Glenmore Rd, Paddington (Nicole Kidman, Garance Dore and Gemma Ward have all had a cuppa here!)
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