Spring 2002 was his last collection for the house, and he ended it with a retrospective look at all his past collections for YSL, the iconic and the clever, the championed, the disastrous, the beautiful and the damned. It was a wonderful testament to him as a designer and showed the audience how truly marvellous and skilled he was. no-one was left with a single doubt about his abilities with scissors and needles. This collection reminded us why YSL was so great; because he had a clear style and stuck to it, even when that style and aesthetic went out of fashion.
There was the mondrian dress, the safari jacket, the le smoking, the pea coat, the baggy trousers, the long 30s style dresses. it was never decadent, never too bare, but trod the fine line between minimalism and extravagance that is necessary for any designer looking to succeed in the world of fashion. It was refinded, with a sophisticated and chic pallette and choice of fabrics. It was also confident, confident of his ability as a designer and confident that he would continue to be loved, even after the halls of YSl were closed to couture. i would love to see Pelati take up the reigns of couture at YSL but for now i'm happy to leave it with the echoes of YSL's last collection, a testiment to his greatness, to continue to reverberate in the halls of fashion.
The collection ended with every model doing her walk through wearing a variation on the Le Smoking, arguably YSL' greatest contribution to fashion. Androgynous but painfully sexy, the Le Smoking is iconic now of female power and classic beauty. I loved that he ended his last couture show with the girls in pants, not dresses. That takes some real balls.
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