Some say this came in Spring of 2007 when Tisci when he showed his first full HC collection for Givenchy. I would say this is correct. It was a defining moment for the house, showing that Tisci had matured from some of his trite and contrived sillhouettes of youth and into a more matured understanding of design that focussed on clever tailoring and quirky, ingenious twists to the cocktail dress and evening gown. Along with Audrey Hepburns Breakfast at Tiffany's dress, this season of haute couture revealed some iconic Givenchy dresses that catapulted the flagging and flailing house back into the limelight.
It has been the strength of Tisci at the helm of Givenchy that has done this. He has gone from strength to strength throughout the seasons, culminating in his Fall 2008 collection for Givenchy which has spawned countless copycats of the heavy chains, leather pants and turtlekneck jumpers. His couture collection of 2007 was the beginning of his progressive stellar rise. It was a collection of softness and harsh textures melded together to create not the original but an updated idea of the dainty dress with strong elements.
Of course many people complained that the whole thing didn't pull together well as a collection, and there were the odd outliers, like the bright yellow tulle confection that Irina Lazareanu wore... My answer is this, that yes that is true, the collection could have been more cohesive. But this is couture, for crying out loud. It is supposed to be wild and untameable. That's why people like it.
It was all mostly long, wildly designed but well put together dresses that showed that he needed to tone it up and develop as a designer more and think about varying his collection a bit more; next season he would show skirts, pants and different lengths; clearly Tisci had learnt from his previous mistakes. The accessories were bizarre and unnecessary, but even the wildness of antlers couldn't take away from the beauty of some of the dresses. But even more than that it showed clearly that Givenchy was back with a vengeance. And Althoug this might not have been Givenchy or Tisci's strongest offering to the fashion world, it was the one that made me sit up and think, right. Pay attention to Givenchy. Watch this space.
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