Louise Goldin is the first show i'm going to review. She's the BFF of giles deacon, and you can see why. They both run towards the dramatic end of the scale, enjoying being avant garde, and creating their own niche market to boot. Giles does the clothes, Louise the knitwear, and a lovely fashion couple was created. But Goldin is also surprisingly, as style.com noted, adept at non-knitwear creations, as this Spring offering showed.
She's gone futuristic on us, which is completely fine. lagerfeld did it last haute couture with chanel, Pilati with YSL in fall. It's a trend that is never going to go away, so long as grey is still a colour and metallics/sheer still viable fabrics. But Goldin did it maturely. by that i don't mean space age in a way your gran would want to wear it, but not in the infantile lame leggings and metal inserts kind of way (cough anna sui). She did it by subtly tweaking the lines and cuts of her garments, adjusting the colour skin to run to the lighter shade of pale, as it were, and melding different fabrics together to create odd, but very summery pairings, especially for a knitwear designer.
Sheer was out in full force, as was noted in NYC. she had sheer underskirts/peticoats, sheer over skirts, sheer sleeves. They add an allure to every garment and created a depth to each outfit that some of her contemporaries lack. There was also the avoidance of any star trek/ star wars/ anything with star in it, by ensuring that the shoulders were not too broad, the padding not too out there. It was like she had mellowed out balenciaga, in a way.
They were space age, mark my words, but they were wearable. I could see Pixie Geldof with one of the dresses with opaques and stilettos at a boutique opening, or even someone like Thandie Newton wearing one. I liked the fact that they would appeal not only to the indie it-girls, but also to the older (but not old, thandie, definitely not old) customer.
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