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style.com

"Unforced Chic" is how style.com summed up Reed Krakoff's sophomore outing at New York Fashion Week. Hardly words you would use to define the man who was the creative director at Coach - not that this is anything against Coach, but "unforced chic" it most certainly is not. I guess it goes to show that even in Fashion sometimes you have to work your way up in order to do what you want. Just like George Clooney who pays his way to independent films through the minefield of the blockbuster, so too is Reed Krakoff finally establishing himself as one of the quiet achievers in minimalistic American design after years at a big fashion house (read: corporation). After turning Coach into a money-making machine Krakoff has now launched his own line, here in its second season, that is hip, urban, definitely chic and so, so so American. With design stints at Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren Krakoff better be able to design 'American', but for his mainline this is a different kind of American. Think: Erin Wasson and Carolyn Bessett Kennedy had a love child who dressed like Dree Hemingway. This is no country club Southern Belle, this is a New York City Doll who likes her dresses to be as slick as leather and her lips to be red, baby red. 

So what's going on here? The touched of leather hark back to a Phoebe Philo Celine moment that hasn't quite departed from fashion's mindset. Her pin-sharp minimalist (re)debut for Celine was an ode to all things working women supposedly want: tailoring, sexy and comfort. Reed Krakoff has taken those ideas for a spin, but added his own oriental theme and urban sportswear tint that New York designers are so enamoured of. The dresses may have been in rustling silks with leather edging but they were kimono style, not a-line. The leather coats had a bit of American swagger in their swing. The plunging necklines were an aftershock of sexuality departing from the scraped back hair and the long(er) hemlines. Piping along dresses and "V" lines were echoed throughout the designs on shoes, bags, tops and dresses. Everything was pulled together in the manner of designers far more experienced and far more confident than Krakoff. But hey, he is American. Say what you will, but they do confident well.

What's all the fuss about? In a nutshell, America is producing some really exciting designers right now. Their clothes are interesting and conceptual without straying too far from what is commercial, they have an eye for tailoring that even Saville Row would commend, and their price points are right on the money. I'm talking about the hallowed five: The Row, Alexander Wang, Proenza Schouler, Altuzarra and now Reed Krakoff. Save the theatrics for London's bad boys (Christopher, Richard, Marios et al) and the classics for Paris. What we want from America is sporty day wear that can take you right from the office to the gym to the Boom Boom Room. And from Reed Krakoff, I think we've got it.

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