It is always fascinating to see how the different "fashion" cities subtly, perhaps even almost imperceptibly develop their own style. We all know that New York is hip, London edgy, Milan glamorous and Paris is chic, but when you watch collections and trawl through pictures on style.com it really hits home that, whether invited or not, the ideas about a particularly city seep into clothes and inform designs. London Fashion Week has just begun, a very different fashion week to New York, with a well-established "bad boy" reputation and tradition of young and up and coming designers. LFW has, over the past decade or so, seen a mass exodus of its big names to other fashion weeks - Burberry went to Milan (although, in an excellent PR move it has since moved back), Stella McCartney, Vivienne Westwood and the late Alexander McQueen all to Paris - something that New York has not even remotely experienced. Short of people leaving to work for other houses American fashion designers have a history of staying loyal to their city. Maybe it's a nationalism thing - the Americans are big on their country - or maybe it's just the way New York and London work. In London the culture as it stands today, although it is ripe for change, is about training them off and then sending them on to better things. London Fashion Week is a relative baby in the schemed of things, a mere decade or so old. Better to send them off to paris when they become big names. New York is more insular, more about carving a niche and keeping it that way.
How is this reflected in design? One of the biggest and most resonant, convincing trend in fashion right now is Minimalism. I've talked and gabbed and preached and blaahed about it so much because I really feel it is the most pressing, most urgent message in fashion today. As a curvier girl I find this whole "bosoms are back in fashion" thing quite patronising, actually. Cleaning your act up and paring back is, to me, much more attractive than getting your boobs out just because Vogue says its "back in fashion". It should always be in fashion to love the skin you're in, and I find that minimalism does promote this in ways that are far more empowering than 1960s sexpots. With minimalism it is about being confident and comfortable with simple clothes, allowing you - whoever that may be - to take the centre stage. If that isn't about body, and personality, confidence then I don't know what is.
style.com
The minimalism of New York and the minimalism of London is vastly different - as is the minimalism of Milan and Paris. New York is Calvin Klein, a show that Nicole Phelps on style.com deemed "uncompromising". It was sleek, clear and very, very confident. Francisco Costa knows what he's doing and he's not afraid to do it. Every garment was self-assured and totally covetable. There was a knowing gaze in the eyes of the models, a determined stride to their step. The tunic tops sitting stark against cropped pants, the bell bottomed dresses, the deep, plunging v-neck dresses and the swing style inverted collar coats were all perfectly formed pieces of clothing, it's as simple as that. The palette was, unsurprisingly, "uncompromising", a domination of creamy whites and murky blacks shot through with one spectacular fire-engine red and a couple of navy blues. This is no junior minimalism, no rookie, no entry level - it's Calvin Klein after all. This was design that was totally and utterly unashamed of being something that is, at times, confronting and harsh. There was no coddling circle skirts, no easy knitwear, no 1960s fun. This was all sharp lines and clear focus. Sometimes it's hard being a woman, especially a New York Calvin Klein one. But in dressing like this fashion can, in that magical, sometimes incomprehensible way, impact upon the way you feel too. It's nigh impossible to have self-esteem issues when you're wearing Calvin Klein - and with dresses like that, it's not hard to understand why.
style.com
On the other end of the spectrum, hovering somewhere between sportswear and minimalism, is Osman Yousefzada's sophomore outing at London Fashion Week for his namesake label Osman. The Osman girl is not as sharp as the Calvin Klein girl. Her hair is in two parts, tucked behind her ears, her lipstick is smudged. Osman chose his shot of colour to be a burnt orange-y amber, a clear contrast to Klein's crimson firecracker. This wasn't a collection of BANGS and BOOMS, this was one of quiet elegance and a fusion of modern and vintage. Whilst round, scooped necks and tweed harked back to easier, simpler times, the shiny vinyl strapless tunics in lightest nude and the the midriff tops and midi skirts recalled a minimalism from just under a decade ago. Then, the simple white tops and the sleeveless trench vest with cut-away coat-tails were all modern. The Calvin Klein girl knows what she wants all the time but the Osman girl is more unsure in that typical London way that is so endearing. With the great London girls you never know how they will dress. One day Kate could be rocking a jumpsuit, the next it'll be jeans and a band tee, the next it'll be a vintage sundress and espadrilles. The excitement is all in the not-knowing, as contrast to New York, where knowing your style to a stitch is the most important. With simple, sporty lines and a quirky eye for textures and fabrics Osman shows how minimalism can be mysteries, surprising, and - dare I say it - youthful.
One of the criticisms levelled at this new minimalism is that it doesn't translate well for those under the age of 30 not working a full time job and living it large and in charge as students, interns, cadets and general adolescent and early 20 layabouts. I would point them to Osman (and then onto Philip Lim who showed a very youthful minimalist/sporty collection at NYFW). Sure, Calvin Klein caters to an older set. But in real life who follows those rules anyway? Sure as you can have mutton dressed as lamb the reverse is possible, too. I guess when I call Osman youthful I mean that it is more accessible for young people. I for one saw it and went - Spice Girls - then, Carrie Bradshaw (from dress number 5) and then, me! We get the pop culture references, we understand the allusions. I saw Calvin Klein and I was intimidated, but in that way that all good design intimidates you at some point. It was so "uncompromising", so "clean and clear" so utterly confident and self-assured that it immediately made me want to curl up under my covers and not think of anything fashion/uni/life related. The thing is, I don't know where I'm going to be in 10 years. Will I be sitting at a desk, typing away in my Calvin Klein pantsuit and strappy sandals? Who can tell, certainly not me.
So until I know I'm going to settle for Osman's exuberant minimalism. It's coltish, a little confused and unsteady on its feet. Just like me.
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