Lily Donaldson by Josh Olins for Vogue Nippon July 2010
via Philophiles
How is it that this can still feel so right, more than a year on? That simple look of crisp white tee and utilitarian, burlap skirt with leather accents and a tousled, messy, well-rumpled updo? Those little styling choices, like rolling the sleeves of the shirt up but leaving their well-starched cuffs free, or that shirt-tail poking out flirtatiously from the bottom of that shorter-than-short skirt? This was supposed to be office wear for real women, but let's be honest here. Only the sexiest of secretaries could pull this off in the workplace. Just like everything Phoebe Philo does, it was charged with that spark of sensual energy that women have as they go about their daily lives. I remember this article that I loved in Vogue US - it was one of those "nostalgia" or "memoir" pieces that they run at the front of their book - where the male author reminisced about women wear men's clothes, and how he once had this flame who, after a night together, slipped into an old pair of jeans and his pyjama shirt and left carrying her heels and party frock in a paper bag. Philo captured this look so well in her first collection. I mean, why is it that men's shirts are always so long? Every time I've worn a man's shirt the tail are hanging down around my thighs and the cuffs go right over my fingers. I guess that's why little slips of things like Sienna Miller can wear men's shirts as dresses. I love the idea that girls can pair a man's shirt with one of their favourite mini's and leave the tails hanging down and the cuffs rolled up. It's an intelligent, insouciant, and yet oh so sexy play on that boy/girl, masculine/feminine charge that characterises fashion at the moment. And, can you believe it, this collection is more than a year old now. Some things never get old.
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