My mum has taken up knitting with a vengeance. She's terribly flighty when it comes to her hobbies - a true gemini in that sense - one minute it's gardening, the next scrapbooking. But I think that knitting is here to stay. I came home today to find her surrounded with little baby beanies that she's knitting for various children to be born to family friends in the next few months. They were so small and cute - if the whole thing didn't seem so exhausting, I'd take up knitting myself. But then, there's a real knitting craze right about now, isn't there? When I was in New York in 2009 I remember dragging my friend to "Purl", a knitting specialty shop in Soho to get some wool for my mum. I thought, jeez, this is going to be an experience, another fantastic anecdote for the ages. When we got there, and I'm not even kidding, Helena Christensen was there, picking out beautiful angora balls hand-dyed to burnt oranges and egg yolk yellows. The whole shop was filled with cool, hip yummy mummies in j brand jeans and knitted tunics and knee high boots and they all looked so chic. It was me and my friend, grubby in doc martens and barbour coats that stood out like sore thumbs.
As my mum knits more and more things, it's becoming increasingly clear that knitting, and wool, and knitwear is a thing of beauty. It's quite remarkable really - that you can turn continuous, singular thread into a garment with just two needles as your aid. It's almost magical. I love the feel of fresh wool and the boxes and boxes of balls that she has on top of her wardrobe - from blush pink to mint green via multicoloured rainbow bonanzas and slate grey in the middle. Some of my favourite clothes are knitted. And it must be abundantly clear to you all that my uniform consists of a knitted, swingy jumper and a fitted maxi skirt. Easy and simple. And that, I think, is what I love most about knitwear. They are often beautiful works of art that remind us so tangibly about the intricacies of the hand-made, but they are never challenging or hard to wear. My Alexander Wang jumper with its foil ties and assymetrical sleeves is no more difficult to wear than my so-simple-it-might-as-well-be-pyjamas sweater by COS. It stems from the fact that they are supposed to keep you warm and cosy, no matter what they look like, so that you can still feel as relaxed and, well, you in fishermans knits as in rodarte.
Maille by Hellen Kitsandonis is a label that understands this too. Made up primarily of beautiful knits of both the dressy and the relaxed kind, this ex-Bassike and Ksubi designer's clothes embody my type of dressing. That is, languid, loose and drapey, the kind of silhouette to recline on chaise lounges in. My former go-to-guy for this kind of stuff was Gary Bigeni, another fantastic label that is really underrated - a veritable best kept secret. Maille is set to become a new favourite. Her fluid lines matched with a lot of drape and a minimalist approach - plus a few spectacular prints and knits thrown in - are quite spectacular and make for a look that is both totally, totally cool as well as innately elegant, something that isn't easy by any stretch of the imagination. A quiet heartbreaker. Hellen took some time out from sourcing beautiful yarns and coming up with fantastic designs to answer some questions for me, thanks!
1. Tell us about Maille.
Maille (pronounced MY), literally translated as ‘knit’ in French, was a natural progression for me as I was freelancing for other brands, creating knits for them and wanted a platform for my own creations. Knitwear and dresses are what I do. I start from scratch, yarn for the knitwear and drape on the mannequin for the dresses and work from there. I am constantly thinking of the woman who is to wear the creation. Fit and form are imperative in the design process and in turn the label.
2. What are your inspirations?
Inspiration is constant. Travel, food, textiles, yarn, architecture, people watching- what they are wearing, how they are wearing it, films, art. Inspiration is endless....
3. Who is the signature Maille girl?
She is confident, experimental, sensual, emotional, multi layered, intelligent.
4. Why the focus on knitting and wool in particular?
The possibilities are endless. To start with yarn and end with a fabric/ garment is so exciting (for me, anyways). It is the perfect way to be creative. Wool as a fibre is perfection to work with - how it drapes, handles & wears. When mixed with other fibers another dimension is added, and you can't ask for much more as a designer.
5. What is your favourite piece in the collection?
I don't have one in particular!
- The fisherman's knit for its colour, texture and simplicity.
- Cowl back tunic for its comfort and twist on the T-shirt.
- The shawl shirt dress for when I want to feel dressed up but completely comfortable.
Maille (pronounced MY), literally translated as ‘knit’ in French, was a natural progression for me as I was freelancing for other brands, creating knits for them and wanted a platform for my own creations. Knitwear and dresses are what I do. I start from scratch, yarn for the knitwear and drape on the mannequin for the dresses and work from there. I am constantly thinking of the woman who is to wear the creation. Fit and form are imperative in the design process and in turn the label.
2. What are your inspirations?
Inspiration is constant. Travel, food, textiles, yarn, architecture, people watching- what they are wearing, how they are wearing it, films, art. Inspiration is endless....
3. Who is the signature Maille girl?
She is confident, experimental, sensual, emotional, multi layered, intelligent.
4. Why the focus on knitting and wool in particular?
The possibilities are endless. To start with yarn and end with a fabric/ garment is so exciting (for me, anyways). It is the perfect way to be creative. Wool as a fibre is perfection to work with - how it drapes, handles & wears. When mixed with other fibers another dimension is added, and you can't ask for much more as a designer.
5. What is your favourite piece in the collection?
I don't have one in particular!
- The fisherman's knit for its colour, texture and simplicity.
- Cowl back tunic for its comfort and twist on the T-shirt.
- The shawl shirt dress for when I want to feel dressed up but completely comfortable.
My favourite piece is the cowl back tunic as well - unsurprisingly. I saw that and just melted. What a beautiful piece and such an easy-luxe basic. Maille is stocked at The Corner Shop in NSW and the Dreamery. Start hunting it down. I know I am!
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